RESTAURANT REVIEW: Boxwood at The London

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

Earlier this month, the Boxwood at The London West Hollywood and its captain, Executive Chef Anthony Keene, extended an invitation to a variety of journos and photogs to attend a grand media dinner showcasing the restaurant’s new seasonal menu. I didn’t need to be asked twice to accept the offer.

Despite having grown up in West Hollywood, I was unfamiliar with the London. But as it turns out, I’ve been there before in another life…not mine, the hotel’s. Formerly the Wyndham Bel Age, Blackstone’s LXR Luxury Resorts & Hotels group acquired the destination, shuttering it in 2007 for a $50 million makeover. Blackstone, which also owns the El Conquistador Resort in Puerto Rico and Key West, Florida’s Casa Marina, reopened the renovated hotel as the sleek and chic London West Hollywood with renowned British chef Gordon Ramsey helming the Boxwood’s kitchen.

London West Hollywood gets big props right off the bat for its location on a sleepy stretch of San Vicente Boulevard just south of sleepless Sunset Boulevard and a few blocks north of bustling Santa Monica Boulevard. Serene and almost secluded, it definitely added an allure to Executive Chef Keene’s invitation on the crisp autumn night I attended.

Chef Keene was installed at Boxwood from the get-go and has remained after Ramsey’s departure last year. Under Keene’s direction, the haute California cuisine infuses seasonal, fresh local produce and other fine ingredients in a restaurant space prefaced by an amazing bar and seating room.

At said bar, an excellent array of cocktails ($15-$17) awaited. Named perhaps after The Clash’s double album masterpiece, a London Calling is a light and supple mix of Mezcal, St. Germaine, Averna and lemon that has a lingering aftertaste, although not in a pejorative way. More fruity and accessible is The Duke, a concoction comprised of Basil Hayden’s bourbon, strawberry, blueberry and mint that inexplicably doubles as The Eye on the restaurant’s menu. As good as these libations are, both of them are blown away by the Queen Victoria, a sublime affair of Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain, cucumber, mint and lime that handily checkmates most cocktails I’ve experienced anywhere this season. (In fact, I had to order a second one with my meal.)

What’s interesting about Boxwood is its seasonal migration. In the summer, the restaurant can be found on the hotel’s roof. During autumn and winter, it retreats to a ground floor location.

A bevy of signature dishes was presented to the journalists and bloggers for sharing. They included Crab Toast, Spice Pumpkin Gnocchi, Chicken Dumplings, Smoked Lamb Ribs, Tai Snapper, Charcoal Grilled Swordfish and Wagyu Rib Cap Steak.

One of the absolute highlights of the entire meal was a deceptively simple starter. A big bowl of Tortilla Jalapeno Soup ($6), with bell pepper and coconut milk, was a unanimous hit at our table. The Smoked Lamb Ribs ($11), off the “Small Plates” menu, came next. Doused in tikka masala, it just melted off the bone.

Lobster Risotto ($24), accompanied by Brussels sprouts, proved delicious, the lobster meat tender, juicy and of the highest quality. The Roasted Chicken ($24), presented on a bed of Basmati rice, carrots and tikka masala, arrived as mouthwatering as it sounds. Another worthy order: Spaghetti With Clams ($22), flavored with a guanciale cured meat and pecorino Italian cheese derived from sheep’s milk.

Originally, the Cheeseburger ($17) was prepared by Chef Keene as quite pink on the inside. Totally subjective here, but undercooked beef is not my preference, so I requested a less rare affair and Chef Keene obliged, creating a well-done burger that was just tantalizing with its melty taleggio and herbed mayo, sandwiched between a savory pumpkin seed bun.

The Spicy Bigeye Tuna Roll ($16), a very long and generous plate of sushi, was exceptionally well-received at our table. However, it left me dissatisfied. While the Ahi tuna and avocado were fresh and of high quality, the rice seemed chewy and undercooked.

When the maple-glazed Pumpkin Éclair ($5), Apple Tarte Tatin ($8) with fennel ice cream, the chocolate mousse cake-style wedges of Hazelnut Crunch ($8) with chocolate sorbet, and the Orange Panna Cotta ($7), with its gingerbread ice cream core, arrived, dessert was very much on!

Most of our table was already pumpkin’d out for the season. Yet the other dessert—particularly the tarte and the panne cotta—killed it with a cup of coffee.

Take my sushi roll comment with a grain of salt (or rice!); the only true disappointment in an otherwise excellent, multi-course extravaganza. For a fine dining experience that includes a state-of-the-art, contemporary ambiance, an attractive, well-oiled bar and terrific staff, consider the Boxwood. And if you do, please, hoist a Queen Victoria for me, won’t you?