REVIEW: The Art of the Sandwich

Open-face, tartine, wrap, submarine, panini, slider, hero, muffuletta – the definition of what was once a simple sandwich has taken on many forms and cultural interpretations since the 17th century. If necessity is the mother of invention there isn’t a better example than that of John Montague – the fourth Earl of Sandwich’s big idea.

Lord Sandwich enjoyed a good game of cribbage now and then. In an effort to play uninterrupted, he had his butler bring him “bits of cold meat” between two pieces of bread to prevent the cards from becoming greasy. Soon after, his fellow gamblers began ordering their meals “same as Sandwich” and just like that the modern sandwich was born.

Prior to that pivotal piece of gastronomical history, the sandwich was simply known as “bread and meat” or “bread and cheese.” The 17th century Dutch have been credited with the invention of the open-faced version of the sandwich. Thin slices of meat were cut from hunks of beef strung in the rafters of taverns; the slices were then piled on buttered bread. The sandwich as we know it today evolved from there.

Some sandwiches are associated with certain cities – the Philly Cheesesteak is a good example – while others belong to entire nations – the Mexican Torta comes to mind. While LA has yet to claim a quintessential “sammie,” it’s only a matter of time before Michael Voltaggio creates his own version at the sandwich shop ink.sack, the offspring next door to his innovative restaurant ink.

Until then, there are plenty of delis and the like around town to keep us satisfied. Read on for just a tiny sampling of those who understand the art of sandwich making.

Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery

1517 Lincoln Blvd. | Santa Monica, CA 90401 | Phone: (310) 395-8279 | baycitiesitaliandeli.com | Prices: $

For almost 80 years patrons have been traveling from near and far to buy Bay Cities’ quality Italian-American prepared foods, distinct baked breads and imported gourmet goodies. The sandwiches, however, are what most people come for. With a selection of over 50 to choose from it can be difficult to narrow it down.

The “Godmother” is a safe bet – she has reached cult-status. The Godmother is the only pre-made sandwich and they are replenished as quickly as they can make them. You’ll find them displayed in a basket on the deli counter and in a fridge near the checkout line. If you want to customize your Godmother, however, you’ll have to grab a ticket at the counter and wait your turn.

Waiting is a big part of the customer experience here. If you’re not waiting for a parking space you’re waiting for your number to be called at the counter and then waiting to pay for it. Don’t even think you’re getting a table right away. It’s all worth it. The outer shell of the crusty bread is like a crisp pastry, while the crumb inside is fluffy, light and chewy. The loaves are made every 20 minutes – just try to leave the shop without one! The filling includes five  varieties of cold cuts from mortadella to prosciutto, Provolone cheese, “the works” if you dare, and hot or mild peppers. If you’re looking for vegetarian options the Eggplant Parmesan is the way to go. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself craving it at all hours. The breaded eggplant topped with melted cheese and layered with just the right amount of tomato sauce is a meal in itself. The sandwich is served warm and will stay in tact without getting soggy if you take it to the beach or even all the way back to the Palisades. Wash it all down with San Benedetto peach iced tea or Italian soda.

East Borough

9810 W. Washington Blvd. | Culver City, CA 90232 | Phone: (310) 596-8266 | east-borough.com | Prices: $

The Bánh mì is the sandwich du jour. It is the less crusty Vietnamese take on the traditional French baguette commonly stuffed with pork, chicken or tofu. The Bánh mì served at East Borough, however, is anything but common.  We wouldn’t expect anything less from co-owners Paul Hibler (Pitfire Artisan Pizza, Superba Food + Bread, Superba Snack Bar) Chef Chloe Trans and John Cao. The meats are marinated and roasted and then butterflied on the grill. The results are a depth of flavor – with accompanying bits of char – and moistness you’ll have to try yourself to believe. The Grilled Lemongrass Pork Bánh Mì heaped with the traditional carrots, jalapeño, cilantro, pickled daikon, cucumber and house made aioli is pretty spectacular. Even more spectacular is its hybrid cousin, boldly pushing the boundaries of French/Vietnamese cuisine. The Pho Baguette is part Bánh mì, part French dip – only you’re dipping the beef brisket sandwich in a rich beefy pho broth. It is the only sandwich available on all four menus. Onion and basil top the brisket along with a generous zigzag of hoisin sriracha aioli. Cool your mouth with a refreshing Green Papaya Salad and inventive house made sodas. Enjoy it all beneath a giant mural of a Vietnamese street scene, complete with graphics that include a runaway egg courtesy of Cao, and design elements like gorgeous concrete patterned floor tiles designed by Chef Chloe.

Carvery Kitchen

3101 Ocean Park Blvd. | Santa Monica, CA 90405 | Phone: (310) 450-0880 | carverykitchen.com | Prices: $

Chef/Owner Roman Shishalovsky knows his way around a sandwich. Mastering the perfect sandwich has been a passion of his for the last 20 years. If you had the opportunity to eat at his establishments in the Valley, you know what to expect from his latest venture. Quality, innovation, freshness, and warm friendly service are the hallmark of his brand. “My goal is to make something different,” Chef Roman proclaimed. He has achieved this admirably through slow roasting meats for no less than 24 hours; offering California farmers market produce; creating flavor-intense dips and jus to accompany the sandwiches; and wrapping it all up in bread that manages to withstand the filling and dipping without becoming soggy and crumbly. His take on the Bánh mì is filled with succulent Italian “porkchetta,” balsamic onion jam and green papaya relish. You don’t have to be a vegetarian to appreciate the ingenuity of the Grilled Veggie Cheesetta – a twist on a “wrap” grilled in a Panini press. Try it with Tahini-Basil Sauce. The restaurant’s design aesthetic has the feel of a Brooklyn/NYC eatery – complete with white subway tiles and copper fixtures – but make no mistake, in Carvery Kitchen Chef Roman has achieved the “California Deli” he sought to create.

Mendocino Farms

4724 Admiralty Way | Marina Del Rey, CA 90292 | Phone: (310) 822-2300 | mendocinofarms.com | Prices: $

Inspired by the “Slow Food Movement” in Northern California, Mendocino Farms is appealing to the taste buds of “Sandwich Aficionados.” By offering local, seasonal produce in sandwiches created to mimic popular modern entrées they are defining the “Fast Fine” dining experience. Corporate Executive Chef Judy Han first learned the importance of eating locally grown, sustainable organic foods at Lucques, where she worked under Suzanne Goin.  She has applied that knowledge and passion in the most unexpected ways. While the menu features Mendo “classics” and “foodie favorites,” there is also a small selection of seasonal sandwiches to choose from. The “Chef’s Special Sandwich Pick” can vary from week to week, depending on farmers market availability. This is a rare experience in a corporate restaurant. There are currently seven locations in the LA area to choose from.

If you walk into the right location at the right time you may encounter a BLHT – Bacon, Lettuce, Heirloom Tomato sandwich. The BLHT features thick slabs of juicy tomatoes from Scarborough Farms in Oxnard, Oakland’s Prime Applewood Smoked Bacon, a splash of balsamic, arugula and fine herbs. Best of all, a yummy mascarpone spread is smeared on crusty slices of toasted buckwheat in lieu of mayonnaise. This sandwich puts the “fine” in “Fast Fine Dining.”

You’ll also find a commitment to the best produce available in the salads – try the signature Chinese Chicken Salad – and selection of sides that change daily in the refrigerated deli case. They even offer samples while you wait. There are a multitude of craft beers and non-alcoholic libations to choose from. Don’t forget about grabbing a cookie or brownie for dessert.

Wexler’s Deli

317 South Broadway | Los Angeles, CA 90013 | Phone: (213) 624-2378 | wexlersdeli.com | Price: $

“Old School Deli Soul Food” proclaims the sign above the counter. If you’ve managed to snag one of 10 stools at Chef Micah Wexler’s minimalist kiosk consider yourself lucky. You are in for a treat. The offerings are just as minimal and to the point as the “kitchen” surrounded by the counter. At Wexler’s Deli they are smoking their own meat and fish in-house every day and the results are out-of-this-world. Watch them slice it and pile it evenly and just high enough on almost sweet –tasting rhy bread. Wexler dabbled in traditional Jewish deli food at his famed “delicatessen Sundays” at Mezze, and later upping the ante at Umamicatessen.

The pastrami is probably the most popular – cured and smoked and steamed into submission. The clove scent looming above the deli will lure you in before the neon sign grabs your eye. The simple components of the MacArthur Park are made exceptional thanks to the smoky-richness of the pastrami. The sandwich includes coleslaw, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing. Try it with a side of house-made pickles and a scoop of potato salad. Simple pleasures have never fed the soul so sweetly.