
170 North Church Lane | Penthouse Level, 17th floor | Los Angeles, CA 90049 | 310-481-7878 | westrestaurantla.com | $$$$
By ANGELA DE FELICE | Food & Style Writer
How is it possible the 17-story circular modern-era landmark building located at the crossroads of Sunset Boulevard and the 405 was not on our radar until now? Maybe it’s because we associate that location with the misery that has become the 405. Finally, there is a beacon of light as we make our way home. Hotel Angelino began its metamorphosis from generic Holiday Inn to chic boutique hotel in 2005, and that is where our adventure begins.
As my dining companion Carolyn and I cut across several lanes of traffic to make the turn into the entrance, we had no idea of the indulgences awaiting us on the 17th floor where West is located.

Photo: Angela De Felice
As we took our perch in the penthouse, we laid empathetic eyes on the red and white ribbons of commuter traffic below. Our server Lauren introduced us to Chef Laura Scollan who suggested her tasting menu with wine pairing. Five courses ensured a long night of grazing.
The Chef’s Tasting Menu is a blind tasting but with seasonal ingredients like cranberry, apple, sage and fig punctuating the menu we knew we were in for a treat. As we took in the scene – a mixture of locals and hotel guests relaxing in a softly lit sophisticated space – we were served round one.
A ramekin of Kabocha Bisque was the perfect note to begin our culinary journey. A crab fritter topped with micro greens floated atop a small serving of rich soup flavored with sage and creme fraiche. A crisp and fruit-forward Nappa Sauvignon Blanc was the ideal companion.
The team works closely with boutique wineries and local growers to ensure the highest quality, and it really shows.
Before we knew it, out came a thinly sliced Grilled Calamari Steak splayed across a fragrant salsa of Persian cucumbers, red and green cherry tomatoes and red peppers topped with a chef’s mix of micro greens and edible flower petals. This special isn’t on the regular menu, but it should be.
The calamari was so tender there would be no need for chewing were it not for the crunchy veggies. It had just the right amount of acidity and paired perfectly with the floral and oaky notes of the Russian River Pinot Gris.
We were only two courses in when Carolyn proclaimed she would “come back to West in a heartbeat!”

Photo: Angela De Felice
Next up, one bowl with three interpretations of duck. The Duck Trio includes slices of roasted breast, braised leg and my personal favorite – duck bacon. Served with Brussels sprouts and a sausage made of root vegetables, the dish was a well-balanced meal. The earthiness and black fruit of the Laetitia Pinot Noir was a wonderful enhancement.
Seared Mahi-Mahi – another item not listed on the seasonal menu – rested on a perfectly creamy squid ink risotto. The flaky fish could have used a little more mango salsa. The buttery Santa Barbara Chardonnay we sipped was an ideal companion.

Photo: Angela De Felice
Our final savory course was a braised Sonoma Lamb Shank served off the bone and accompanied by a puddle of creamy goat cheese polenta mingled with a smoked tomato stew uniquely flavored. The intriguing dish is also known as “ras el hanout,” a North African spice mix. A spicy Bianchi Zinfandel paired perfectly with the exotic flavors.
Lastly came Panna Cotta topped with a thin layer of berry gelatin. We couldn’t resist the lightness of the dessert with its generous serving of fresh berries or the late harvest Moscato with aromas of stone fruit that was served with it.
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