RESTAURANT REVIEW: The Little Door

By JACQUELINE PRIMO | Reporter

246 26th Street | Santa Monica, CA | 90402 | 310-310-8064 | www.thelittledoorsm.com | $$$$

Step inside The Little Door in Santa Monica and it feels as if you’ve been transported to the Mediterranean countryside for an authentic dining experience rivaled only by a trip to the border countries themselves – France, Morocco, Greece and Italy among others.

I enjoyed a lovely meal on the restaurant’s Autumn Patio, which was enclosed, heated and boasted live plants growing gracefully against the walls beside frosted mirrors that appeared to open up the room.

Light music played and blue and red string lights glowed against the glass candles lit on each table. The atmosphere was intimate, romantic, cozy and warm if a little under-lit.

By 7:30 p.m. on a weeknight, tables were all full with couples, groups of friends and families alike.

The farm-fresh menu, less than a week old according to an informative French server, offered satisfying portions and tantalizing dishes.

My guest and I began with the “Mezze” Assorted Mediterranean Appetizers. The plate included deviled egg, gingered carrots, tzatziki, hummus, falafel, kibbeh, spanakopita and a basket of homemade pita and flatbread.

The gingered carrots were just sweet enough to balance out the spicy kibbeh with the warm homemade grilled pita pairing nicely (as always) with the zesty hummus and tzatziki. The spanakopita, a Greek savory pastry with a spinach and feta cheese-based filling, had a satisfyingly flaky exterior with a nourishing, savory and soft interior.

I could have made a meal of the Mezze alone!

Between the appetizer and the entrée, I sipped an Old Boy with verbena-infused Reyka Vodka, vieux garçon (stewed raspberries, strawberries and blackberries) and lemon juice – très délicieux!

As an entrée, I opted for the Roasted Wild Cabillaud, Old-Fashioned Mustard and Caper Sauce – a daring choice for someone who isn’t a big fan of fish. But I was very pleasantly surprised when I tasted it.

The cabillaud didn’t taste “fishy,” but rather tender and buttery, and it paired excellently with the braised celery root and pink lady apple upon which it lay. Adding a dollop of puréed butternut squash to each bite was the icing on the cake.

This dish tasted light, healthy and extremely fresh. A glass of Sancerre Millet Frères white wine brought out the flavors of the dish.

My guest went with a more hearty dish – the Couscous “Royale” With Lamb Stew, Lamb Chops, Chicken & Merguez Sausage.

Before ordering this entrée, make sure you are very hungry, share it with friends or plan on taking home a “doggie bag” because it is an extremely generous portion.

The tender and juicy chicken and lamb combined with the lean sausage atop couscous soaked in a medley of flavors for a very hearty and comforting dish.

For dessert we chose the Chocolate Soufflé, which was made in-house and baked while we sipped our drinks. The rich treat was airy and fluffy, with real whipped cream in addition to chocolate and vanilla sauces for drizzling or dipping.

To cap off our meal, we luxuriated with genuine Moroccan mint tea served from a Moroccan teapot (berrad) and warmed our hands around the small glasses.

Whether you’re in the mood for a romantic dinner date or simply want to enjoy a fancy night out with friends, The Little Door has all the right ingredients.