RESTAURANT REVIEW: The Albright

258 Santa Monica Pier | Santa Monica, CA 90401 | (310) 394-9683 | thealbright.com | Prices: $$

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

The moment we stepped into The Albright, a surprise awaited us: Popeye, Olive Oyl and Swee’Pea greeted us at the door. Yes, here, staff members wear custom Popeye t-shirts.

On TV screens throughout the spacious, nautical-themed restaurant on the Santa Monica Pier, those classic black-and-white Fleischer Bros. cartoons play in a loop. So what gives?

Brandon Green, The Albright’s young, affable general manager, explained that the owners of this fun and unpretentious seaside haven had implemented the Popeye flourishes only a few weeks ago. A savvy move on their part, incorporating the nearly dormant cartoon character, which is also Santa Monica’s most famous native son.

That’s right, cartoonist Elzie Crisler Segar was already a decade into his popular syndicated comic strip “Thimble Theater” and living in Santa Monica when, on Jan. 17, 1929, he introduced Popeye the Sailor Man, created only a short walk away at his Broadway-and-4th office.

So it all comes back full circle at the Albright (named, after all, after a sailor’s rope knot), where Segar’s venerable characters help set the stage for what is an authentic seafood experience on the historic Pier, whether you’re a tourist or a local.

We started out with a variety of oysters. The California-caught Fannybay ($15) may be bigger but the Washington-imported Kumamoto ($20) are tastier and more refined.

Both come by the half-dozen, with champagne mignonette and spicy relish. Clams ($19) are also on the menu.

Accompanying the oysters were a couple glasses of Cool Sangria ($9; $7 on Sangria Sundays), a generous mix of wine and chopped fruit. I preferred the red over the white variety, but both are delicious and refreshing and the alcohol inside packs a Popeye-on-spinach punch.

The colorful Lobster Roll ($17.99), its savory crustacean meat pressed within a deliciously toasted and buttery French roll, comes nicely structured with a side of French fries that are thin, flavorful and not greasy.

We also enjoyed Fried Calamari ($11.75), which arrived with a side of Chipotle aioli sauce, and Beer-Battered Onion Rings ($6.50) accompanied by barbecue aioli. The rings were bountiful, formidable; the calamari tasty, with a nice texture. Next came the Rock Crabs (Market Price) plucked live from their saltwater tank. The hulking crustaceans were filled with succulent white meat.

No doubt to Wimpy’s delight, The Albright also serves an Angus Burger ($11.95)—although you must pay upon ordering and not on the following Tuesday (yuk, yuk, yuk).

Under “Pier Classics,” you will find everything you could want from a no-nonsense seafood joint: Fish & Chips ($13.50), Mussels & Fries ($15.75) and Paella ($21.95), which our neighbors — first time customers —said they enjoyed. Grilled Tacos ($12.95 to $17.25) and Beer-Battered Fish Tacos ($13.50) are also available.

In addition to seafaring fare, The Albright, a Pier fixture since 1977, recently updated its menu with new items.

So our meal’s biggest surprise was the scrumptious Poké Bowl ($11; $12 with Jasmine rice), an outstanding, mildly spicy mound of Ahi tuna cubes, diced avocado, red and green onions doused with garlic chile sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil and seeds that is at once delightfully gourmet and surprisingly filling.

Other recent additions include the Shrimp Po’ Boy ($12), beer-battered fried shrimp on a French roll with lettuce, tomato, red onion and Old Bay Aoili with a side of fries; and a Cobb or Southwest Salad (each $11.95).

General Manager Green, who has been with the restaurant for nearly two years, comes from local restaurant royalty. His uncle is the gregarious Norwood J. Clark, Jr., owner/operator of a legendary Venice soul food spot, Uncle Darrow’s Cajun and Creole Eatery on Lincoln Boulevard.

Green and his friendly Albright staff extend much hospitality to their guests, so customers really feel at home here on the Pier

Finally, no review would be complete without singling out my own great white whale: the New England Clam Chowder Breadbowl ($9.50).

Just recently, I had a hankering for the terrific breadbowl that I had experienced a few months ago at the San Francisco-spawned Boudin Bakery at California Adventure, and I had to drive all the way to Costa Mesa to find another one.

Had I known that a great breadbowl of New England, with its hearty, chunky soup and a sourdough shell imported from the Bay Area awaited me just down the hill from the Palisades, my trek would have been much shorter.

And what better place to enjoy clam chowder than among friends: Green, his staff, and, of course, Popeye and Olive.