RESTAURANT REVIEW: Saint Martha

740 S. Western Ave. | Los Angeles, CA 90005 | (213) 387-2300 | www.staintmartharestaurant.com | Prices: $$$

Behind the most unassuming red door in the most inconspicuous strip mall in Koreatown is one of the most vibrant and intriguing restaurants to captivate my taste buds in some time.

Partner and Executive Chef Nick Erven (see our review of Chef Nick’s other venture, TART at www.palipost.com/category/food-and-style) explains his approach to Saint Martha (the patron saint of cooks and servants) as such: “In creating these dishes, my main priority is evoking the emotional power of food and creating a sense of familiarity for my guests, while also presenting them with something they haven’t exactly experienced before.”

The art-filled walls, courtesy of co-owner Ellen Picataggio’s aesthetic and artist Jesse Azarian, reflect those sentiments exactly. An effervescent glass of Portuguese Vinho Verde tickled our palates as our eyes took in the scene. Traditional paintings selected at the flea market were one-upped, or “paint-bombed,” with hipster adornments. The portrait of a Victorian-era lady becomes street-wise with the addition of tattoos, while the mums in a still life no longer appear to be brooding when an L.A. Dodgers baseball cap comes into view.

If this is beginning to sound like an artsy hipster-haunt, give it a chance. A quick survey of the patrons reveals people of all ages and origins. To a foodie, the menu reads like poetry. Randy, my lucky dining companion, suggested I order the left side while he took care of the right. Sommelier and General Manager Mary Thompson managed to narrow it down for us, including the wine pairings.

Thompson curated the beverage program to feature over 50 wines by the glass. Her emphasis on small producers and under-valued regions resulted in a very esoteric wine list. Do you know anything about the terroir in Hungary? Thompson does. Have you sipped Lebanese wine recently, or wine from Texas for that matter? The wine list can be explored as fervently as you wish, with options ranging in cost and size. Enjoy a “taste,” ‘’glass,” “piché” or “bottle.”

Before we knew it, out came two glasses of Blanc Du Bois from Hye, Texas tasting of citrus blossom, immediately followed by Santa Barbara Spot Prawn Tartare. Tossed in burnt orange oil, the delicate shrimp became alluring smattered across a brick of pink Himalayan salt. Could Chef Nick have been thinking about the salt sauna at the Wi Spa in K-Town during the creative process?

An accompanying jar of chilled market melon soup was poured into shot glasses as though this sort of thing happens at every restaurant. And this was how our multisensory journey began.

A dry rosé featuring strawberry and citrus notes came all the way from South Africa just to accompany our Sea Urchin Tataki With Avocado Mousse, Hearts of Palm and Seaweed Doritos. We ate them like chips and dip, scooping up the creamy golden mounds with the spicy “Doritos.”

The 2011 Vignerons de Mancy, “Les Classic” from Bourgogne had notes of salted caramel, chocolate and cherry. Thompson unexpectedly paired the Pinot with a dish that was a celebration in its mere presentation. A silky slab of salmon came into focus as a smoke-filled cloche was lifted.

This has become a trend in modern restaurants – a very theatrical way to enhance the sensory experience at the table. An infusion of aroma was added to dry ice and then captured in a serving vessel. In this case it was the smoked salmon scent we were momentarily bathed in. A puddle of watercress-yogurt emulsion with a sprinkling of pickled cippolini, brioche croutons and Nasturtium greens lent a “Nouveau Nordic” feel to the smoked salmon dish.

In stark comparison to the drama of the last dish, a minimalist black plate with two scoops of steak and oyster tartare thoughtfully arranged next to bone marrow beignets arrived. The brininess of the oysters was a beguiling juxtaposition to the rawness of the steak. The placement of the champagne sabayon, something you’d almost expect in a dessert, made me think of a Motherwell painting.

Served alongside the steak and oysters, the Brassicas With Toasted Brewer’s Yeast, Mushroom and Egg was a bowl of comfort. A flavorful broth brought all the elements – cruciferous caramelized veggies topped with a poached egg – together. We enjoyed dipping the sourdough bread in the salty brew.

You might say this next dish is an ode to Chef Nick’s two loves – his restaurant and Texas. Pecan Wood Smoked Brisket with Hoisin, Tiny Lettuce and Root Vegetables was engaged in a Texas meets K-Town duel. The perfect proponent to this duel was the berry-forward 2011 Chapoutier, “Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem” from the south of France. We happily washed down the 14-hour smoked brisket with the ever-so-slightly chilled Syrah, no chewing required.

As the eat-fest wore on, I could feel Saint Martha smiling down on us as the heavens opened to reveal a dessert of peaches, cake and ice cream. Of course, they weren’t just any old peach – these “designer” peaches were from the renowned Regier Family Farm. Roasted and glossy they balanced on a perfect slice of almond genoise, next to a scoop of wildflower honey ice cream. A drizzle of honey, chunk of honeycomb and sprinkling of honeycomb candy surrounded the star attraction. A late harvest Domaine du Fresche was from a region of the Loire Valley famous for dessert wines. Tasting of rose and baked apple, it was the nightcap to end all nights.

As we made our exit, Chef Nick waved to us beneath the glow of a neon sign spelling the word “hipster.” I think the sign above his kitchen will eventually have to be revised – “artist” might be more apropos.