RESTAURANT REVIEW: Pinocchio In Cucina

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

As we leave Halloween and barrel toward the cozy, wintery palate of comfort foods that Thanksgiving and Christmas encourage, an Italian restaurant might not be the obvious choice.  However, from the warm and abundant kitchen of owner Chef Giuseppe Barravecchia (a.k.a. “Pino”), Pinocchio in Cucina, right in the heart of the Village, emerges with a vast array of options loaded with cooked, fresh vegetables, not to mention that crispy, slightly burnt, made-from-scratch pizza crust, that coincide nicely with autumn and winter as we begin to experience cooler fall weather.

Pinocchio is no ordinary pizza joint. Chef Barravecchia brings to the tabella some serious gourmet cred. The soft-spoken Sicilian previously worked at Italian eateries in West Hollywood and Beverly Hills while his immediate family still runs Pepito Ristorante back in Sicily, so marinara sauce is in his blood.

In Pinocchio’s Insalata category, there are plenty of inventive ideas. Adorning the Carciofi Salad ($6.50/$8.99) are bulbous oven-roasted tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, buffalo mozzarella and balsamic vinaigrette. The Caprese Salad ($6.50/$8.99) also features buffalo mozzarella, but with sliced tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil. For something completely different, try the house salad ($6.50/$8.99): baby spinach, butter lettuce, roasted tomato, cucumbers, olives, goat cheese and toasted almonds in honey mustard dressing.

Arugula Insalate ($11.99), topped with your choice of grilled salmon or shrimp, comes with cucumber, tomato, olive oil and lemon juice. Fresh arugula and sublime gorgonzola cheese loom large at this Village-based haven, not just on salad but topping their gourmet pizzas and burgers, and, frankly, that’s what helps give Pinocchio the edge over its less-gourmet competitors.

La Pizza Fresca Mozzarella ($21.49) offers a pie with fresh tomato, prosciutto and arugula. La Meat Lover Pizza ($7.99/ $13.99 / $18.99)—fresh tomato and mozzarella bulk-loaded with ham, pepperoni, chicken and sausage—definitely lives up to its moniker.

Pizzas here can be requested with wheat crust or gluten-free alternatives, so there’s little excuse not to take the pie way when dining here. Wheat pizza options come a-plenty. There’s always the basics: La Pizza Margharita ($16.49) and La Pizza Al Salame ($18.49) —plain and pepperoni pizzas, respectively. The most ambitious pie here, La Pizza Etna ($20.49), topped with marinara, mozzarella, goat cheese, spinach red onions, garlic and capers, boasts ingredients so fresh, their individual flavors unthread in your mouth with every bite.

On the gluten-free side, try Pizza Autunno ($17.99 / $22.99), smothered in delicious marinara sauce, mozzarella, tomato, eggplant and zucchini, with a peppering of oregano.

There are so many directions to go with the Secondi. In the area of pasta, Risotto Al Profumo Di Tartufo ($8.50 /$12.99) arrives al dente with four different types of mushrooms or, for something completely different, Risotto with Figs ($8.99/13.99) also includes goat cheese and arugula.

That small-shell paste known as Orecchiette ($6.99 / $9.99) comes either with chicken sausage, fresh tomato, rapini and garlic topped with mozzarella; or as Orecchiette Alla Siciliana ($6.99 / $10.99), with eggplant, pepperoni, zucchini, fresh tomatoes and mozzarella. Meanwhile, a bowl of Farfalle al Salmone ($7.99/$10.99) bow tie pasta strikes the perfect balance of fresh fish and cream.

For $15.99, you can dive into chicken fare, with Pollo Funghi and Asparagus ($15.99) offering a sautéed chicken breast with asparagus and mushrooms in white wine sauce; or the Pollo Carciofi ($15.99), with artichokes, sun- dried tomato and leak. (Each entree comes served with two sides of vegetables.) Another savory dish: Stinco D’ Agnello ($16.99), a lamb shank braised in Cabernet wine for scrumptious effect.

If pasta and pizza is not your thing and you’re not up for a plate of chicken or lamb, there are so many more roads to take here. The aforementioned hamburger comes in four varieties: Swiss, Turkey, Caprese, and a house burger loaded with gorgonzola and caramelized onions. Order the turkey meatballs, or from the ample sandwich category, where paninis come stuffed with everything from roast beef to prosciutto. And okay, if you must scratch that pumpkin itch, Pinocchio seasonally (and now is definitely the season!) offers Pumpkin Ravioli, a mouthwatering affair accented with sage and brown butter. For dessert, gluten-free brownies or biscotti, not too heavy after a filling Italian meal, provide just enough dolce to cure that sweet tooth (with a side of cappuccino, of course)!

Moreover, as the next family holiday looms large, Palisadians not inclined to slave over a hot stove can consider Pinocchio’s pre-order Thanksgiving menu, replete with a carefully marinated turkey.

Yes, Pinocchio in Cucina may be located inside a small mall, but this scrappy eatery and deli makes the most of its environs and the hospitality of Chef Pino and his friendly, inviting staff more than overcompensates. So when searching for culinary treasure in Pacific Palisades this Thanksgiving season, do not overlook this charming little gem.