RESTAURANT REVIEW: Modo Mio Cucina Rustica

15200 Sunset Blvd. | Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 | (310) 459-0979 | www.restaurantmodomio.com | Prices: $$

“Lemon Love” is how I would describe our recent lunch at Modo Mio. Ashley and I took our perch above Sunset and Monument in the cozy restaurant filled with natural light and murals resembling frescos.

The recent changeover in ownership seems to have sparked new life in this Palisadian favorite. George, the new proprietor, assured us we wouldn’t find any changes on the menu. He did, however, make a couple adjustments for the benefit of his longtime patrons. Most importantly, the rustic straw chairs were about to be replaced with cushiony ones. George’s guests will now be able to linger over lunch and dinner in comfort and style.

Our antipasti began with bruschetta. The grilled bread was topped with chopped tomatoes obviously at their peak. There was little need for much more than garlic and olive oil. “There is beauty in simplicity,” my father used to say.

Out next was the Carciofe E Parmigiano. It was a bowl of shaved baby artichoke and Parmesan served with a drizzle of lemon and olive oil – a dish that was a light lemony delight.

The Calamari Grigliati was a melt-in-your-mouth grilled calamari steak wading in a puddle of tart lemon and parsley. It was tucked next to a pile of peppery arugula with a smatter of pine nuts.

We were beginning to understand why Modo Mio has enjoyed such longevity in the Palisades when the real standout of the feast was placed before me. Tagliatelle made in-house with 00 flour was served with the perfect proportion of Bolognese sauce. It was a meaty, tangy tomato-heavy sauce with a touch of nutmeg – the key ingredient to a solid Bolognese – with no evidence of cream. The sauce achieved a level of complexity only possible in a lovingly tended slowly simmered sugo. Delizioso!

Ashley was equally pleased with her selection. The Penne Al Salmon was made with a vodka sauce of fresh tomatoes and an omission of the traditional cream. The creaminess lay in the morsels of salmon.

As Ashley declared, “It’s a good alternative if you’ve indulged in the bread and don’t want anything too heavy.”

For dessert, an excellent rendition of the classic Tiramisu was served alongside an airy lemon cheesecake with strawberry coulis. Ending on a lemon note, we had come full circle in our lingering lunch.