RESTAURANT REVIEW: Mendocino Farms

631 Wilshire Blvd. | Santa Monica, CA 90401 | 310-395-5273 | mendocinofarms.com | Prices: $

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

Witness the decade-strong success of Mendocino Farms, the growing sandwich-making mini-empire created by married business partners Mario Del Pero and Ellen Chen.

Much of that success can be attributed to the couple tapping into the organic, artisanal and locally sourced food industry very early in the game at the turn of the 21st century.

The good news for Palisadians is that Mendocino Farms has finally opened in Santa Monica on the otherwise sleepy corner of Wilshire Boulevard and 6th Street.

For the longest time, the Rick Caruso-rehabbed Waterside at Marina Del Rey was the closest place for Westsiders to hit a “Mendo,” as the company affectionately calls itself.

On Nov. 17, Santa Monica became the 12th shop to open. Next door is the hip new doughnut destination Sidecar Doughnuts, which is Mendocino’s Costa Mesa-based partner.

“It’s important for us to lock arms with our partners to create the right kind of place,” Del Pero said.

Because Mendocino Farms was looking for the perfect “neighborhood gathering place,” it took a very long time to get there, Del Pero said. “We were looking tirelessly for the right spot to plant our flag.”

Mendocino Farms takes pride in its partnerships, having for years teamed up with a variety of suppliers that provide the ingredients informing the sandwich shop chain’s menu.

“Teammates” include Petaluma Poultry, Drago Bakery, Drake Family Farms, Scarborough Farms, Creminelli, beverage-maker Sugarbird Sweets & Teas, and Coldwater Canyon Provisions.

Del Pero grew up in Northern California before relocating to Manhattan Beach, where he started as a bus boy at Baja Sharkeez. Years later, he opened the short-lived restaurant Skew’s.

In 2003 he and Chen opened the first Mendocino Farms in downtown LA’s historic Bunker Hill neighborhood. Now there are locations throughout Los Angeles and Orange County.

In recent years, Mendo’s Chef Judy Han has designed their sandwiches and carefully crafted a menu that has resonated with SoCal locals.

The “Seasonal Sandwiches” menu has much to offer. One of my favorites is the Short Rib Sunday Supper Trencher ($11.25), a wallop of a braised beef sandwich, slathered with a red wine-tomato gravy/braised kale/mirepois “Sunday Sauce” and topped with a horseradish ricotta crema in a panini-pressed fresh roll.

Another winner is the Peruvian Steak Sandwich ($10.95), a scandalously delicious affair with spicy aji Amarillo free-range steak with Oaxacan cheese, herb aioli, red onions, tomatoes and shredded romaine on a panini-pressed torta bun.

For something spicier and more daring, the Vietnamese-themed Kurobuta Pork Belly Banh Mi ($10.45) is jam-packed with braised pork, house-made pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, cucumbers, jalapenos and a chili aioli, all panini-pressed within a ciabatta.

Another porcine option: Winter Ham & Pretzel Melt ($9.45), combining prime honey ham that is seared with caramelized onion and Gala apple chutney. Add wilted spinach, Mountain gruyere and smoked gouda, and it’s all pressed onto a pretzel roll with Mendo’s tart mustard.

Poultry pickers should try the signature Prosciutto & Free Range Chicken ($10.45), made with Creminelli prosciutto and roasted free-range chicken breast with Gioia fresh mozzarella, crushed honey roasted almonds, basil pesto, balsamic vinegar, tomatoes on a ciabatta.

The cheekily named “Not So Fried” Chicken ($9.95) is just that: a not-greasy free-range breast with various veggies and a choice of chipotle BBQ sauce or mustard pickle remoulade on a toasted ciabatta.

In addition to these constantly shape-shifting “Seasonal Sandwiches,” there are the core “Classics.”

The Chicken MBT ($8.95) and The Farm Club ($9.95) offer nearly straightforward chicken and turkey options. The plot thickens with the Italian “Love Sandwich” ($9.25), a twist on the Philly hoagie with Prime honey ham and fennel salami, a house-made spicy giardiniera, herb lettuce, Provolone, tomatoes and herb aioli on a soft roll.

A Sandwich Study of Heat ($9.95) riffs on the turkey-avocado sammy, with veggies, Gouda, chili aioli and jalapeno relish on rustic white bread. Mendo also offers its take on the tuna melt—Modern Tuna Melt ($9.45) —and Caprese ($8.25).

Those looking to shed themselves of some carbs and calories can turn to Mendo’s menu of “Soulful Salads,” generous, hulking bowls of greens and proteins.

The current seasonal salad is Roasted Butternut Squash & Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad ($9.95). In the ongoing category, try The Modern Caesar ($9.95), a large, satisfying version of an old favorite while Save Drake Farm’s Salad ($11.45) includes the famed goat cheese.

My taste buds side with Mama Chen’s Chinese Chicken Salad ($11.25)—roasted free-range chicken, Napa cabbage and lacinato kale slaw, with scallions, cilantro, toasted almonds and crispy wontons with a miso mustard sesame dressing thrown in for good measure.

Meanwhile, Mendo’s “Vegan For All!” menu provides thoughtful options (ranging from $8.95 to $9.65) for those eschewing animal products. Among the options are the Smoky Sweet Hippie Vegan Banh Mi, Enlightened Falafel Wrap and Samosa Dosa (coconut curried cauliflower mash with garbanzo beans with various veggies inside whole wheat pita).

With all of these savory ingredients, you’ll definitely want to wash it down with something good to drink. Beverages include Seasonal Lemonade ($2.95), which was grape-flavored on my visit. I’ll vouch for Sugarbird’s Passionfruit Black Iced Tea ($2.75), a refreshing, just sweet enough concoction with a terrific aftertaste.

Mendocino Farms prides itself on being malleable, with vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options as well as adjustments of the spice-meter on your sandwich.

Interestingly, Mendocino Farms has yet to open a store near its Northern California namesake. But that will be changing soon.

A Mendocino Farms is scheduled to open in the Bay Area later this year.

Other changes at the sandwich chain include an alliance with Whole Foods Market. This summer, beginning in Orange County, Mendo will have a presence inside selected Whole Foods markets.

But why wait when your closest Mendocino Farms is just a short drive into Santa Monica?