RESTAURANT REVIEW: Mastro’s Ocean Club

It’s been the most talked-about local restaurant opening in years. So when Mastro’s confirmed my dinner reservation for two, I couldn’t wait to get there.  I arrived early, and my dining companion kept me waiting, but I didn’t mind. It gave me more time to ponder the merits of the extensive bar menu as well as the lively bar scene.

Exotic cocktails composed of obscure boutique brands like Esprit de June Liqueur (created in France from the ephemeral vine-flowers of grape varietals) and Cherry Heering (made from Danish grown cherries) jumped off the pages like spinner dolphins. But what was I in the mood for? Did I need something palliative? If so, the Penicillin, a mix of Glenlivet, Shrub & Co. Spicy Ginger, honey water and fresh lemon, sounded like it would do the trick. Or maybe I was feeling luxuriant – I was seated at the Mastro’s Ocean Club bar after all – in which case the South of France, featuring Moët & Chandon Impérial Champagne, Esprit de June, Combier Crème de Pamplemousse Rose and fresh lemon, would suffice. What will Anna Orton-Pujol and Robbi Jo Oliver, Director of Wine & Spirits, uncover next in their bar program?

I decided I needed something refreshing – a real thirst-quencher. The ladies had just the thing for me: The Lemon Ginger Smash. Think of a vodka mojito. Grey Goose Le Citron Vodka, Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur, muddled mint, with a splash of Fever-Tree club soda, served over ice in a tall glass, was bright and clean and the very thing to obliterate my thirst.

Had my dinner companion not shown up (and if I were single), my perch at the bar would have been the perfect spot to grab a bite and mix with the sophisticates pouring in by the moment. It’s a very lively scene up there, complete with wide-screen TV and chanteuse.

When my friend showed up, we relocated to a table with a spectacular ocean view. It should be noted, however that thanks to the clever use of mirrors in the restaurant, every table offers at least a peek of the ocean.

When the “Breadbasket of Temptation” was placed before us we did our best to nibble rather than devour it whole. Out of respect for Chef Oscar Ladesma, who offered us plenty of suggestions, we managed some restraint. Chef Oscar has been honing his Mastro’s skills from Vegas to Newport Beach in preparation for this gig.

The Ventura native, and resident of Topanga, has come full circle. Before mastering steak at Mastro’s he transformed the menu at the Old Place Restaurant in Agoura Hills. For the time being, Chef Oscar plans to “keep things simple,” until he is able to incorporate a few signature dishes.

Mastro’s intends to keep the taste and feel consistent with their brand. In fact, the only thing separating the Ocean Clubs from the Steakhouses is a small selection of sushi.

Saving the sushi for another time, we decided on the towering Ahi Tuna Tartare. It tasted as good as it looked, layered with wonton skins, avocado salsa in the center and topped with Ahi. An artful drizzle of lemony aioli was the finishing touch. There was nice texture to it and just enough heat from the jalapeños in the salsa.

The Sautéed Shrimp was delivered at the same time. Served in a bowl, the shrimp – curly as ringlets – were surrounded by the Parmesan crostini I favored in the breadbasket, wading in a velvety tomato-based broth.

We also shared an Heirloom Tomato and Burrata Salad. This was to be my only gripe of the night – a tomato that was unripe. Enough said.

Having paced ourselves, we were ready for the main event. Out came a gorgeous 18-ounce Bone-In Kansas City Strip, accompanied by a decadent mound of Lobster Mashed Potatoes.

The steak was smoky and well seasoned, allowing the full flavor of the meat to shine through. This dairy cow by way of Chicago was cooked to medium-rare perfection.

The rich, buttery, creamy potatoes were extravagant, I’ll admit. Upon tasting the potatoes, my pal muttered something about “The best of the best” before he dove back into his plate. I was just excited he left the entire claw topping the potatoes for me.

Eventually this food extravaganza had to come to an end – but not until the Signature Warm Butter Cake had been dealt with. A scoop of ice cream topped the moist cake served with a dollop of house-made whipped cream, fresh berries and berry coulis.

As we crunched through the crisp crust that formed on the outside of the cake we noticed how even the waves outside were taking on a buttery hue. It wasn’t a mirage from having consumed too much butter – just the cast of the sun during the Golden Hour.