RESTAURANT REVIEW: Maison Giraud

1032 Swarthmore Ave. | Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 | (310) 459-7561 | www.maison-giraud.com | Prices: $$$

Owner-Chef Alain Giraud of the beloved local fixture Maison Giraud is fond of the Palisades Farmer’s Market. You can spot him making the rounds while warmly engaging with fellow Palisadian shoppers – after all, the market is a stone’s throw from his restaurant.

It’s the Wednesday Farmer’s Market in neighboring Santa Monica, however, where inspiration really takes hold for Chef Alain. Chefs and food-obsessives travel from all reaches of the greater Los Angeles area to forage the seasonal flow of produce at this CFA (Certified Farmers Market). It is one of the largest and most diverse growers-only CFAs in the nation. Who wouldn’t want to take advantage of a resource like that?

I had the pleasure of experiencing Chef Alain’s creativity first-hand one night at his weekly Wednesday “Farmer’s Market Dinner.” The Parisian-born chef had just returned the day before from a vacation in Aix-en-Provence. According to Chef Alain, the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market is nearly on par with those he visited in the South of France.

The Frenchman didn’t appear to be fighting jet lag in the least. Of course, it helps to have a strong team backing you up behind the scenes.

I settled into a seat at a small table dressed with white linens and a delicate spray of chamomile flowers, grateful for the opportunity to taste the season at this Palisadian favorite.

A 2012 Saint Veran white Burgundy with floral notes was poured tableside. The dining experience began with a little amuse bouche in the form of a fried zucchini blossom stuffed with chèvre resting on a nest of fried leeks, accompanied by a tangy puddle of Béarnaise sauce. This was to be the only savory cream sauce of the evening. Surprising for a French restaurant, non? A light, late summer feast followed.

Thank goodness the Franciscan missionaries had the foresight to plant countless figs in missions up and down the Californian coast. The Black Mission Fig is now a prolific part of our culinary heritage. Some of us are lucky enough to have them growing in our own backyards. Chef Alain hand-selected the most supple figs from Peryn Orchards to scatter over serrated Mizuna leaves. Finely shaved prosciutto contributed salt to the pepperiness of the Mizuna, while almonds added some crunch. A fine drizzle of Fig-Balsamic Vinaigrette brought the dish full circle.

The leisurely meal continued with an elegant, dark berry-forward 2011 Saint Joseph, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Faury from the northern Rhône. It paired beautifully with the Heirloom Zucchini dish about to be dévorer.

A buttery slab of perfectly crisped sea bass took center stage cradled in an assemblage of asparagus, corn and heirloom zucchini from the Weiser Family Farm. The pesto vinaigrette brought even more color and harmony to the dish – every bite was alive with the taste of summer.

Sous Chef Charm, who accompanied Chef Alain to the Farmer’s Market, is learning from the best.

At some point during the meal, a jammy 2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Telegramme from the southern Rhône region graced my wine glass. Magnifique!

Equally magnifique were the late summer peaches that came next. In this creation, the peaches were still warm from the oven, tucked under a layer of almond-oat crumble, topped with house-made vanilla bean ice cream (courtesy of Chef Noubar) and served straight from the dish they were baked in.

I thought nothing could be better, but then the most incroyable dessert appeared – a Chocolate Soufflé that was as puffy as a chef’s hat. When the waiter did the ceremonious serving, cutting into it in a circular pattern and gently filling the slash with Crème Anglaise, I was beside myself with anticipation. The spongy textures and molten chocolate center reminded me why soufflé is considered a classic French dessert.

What a treat. What a memorable night. What good fortune to have an esteemed chef in such close proximity to seasonal produce – and to Palisadians.