RESTAURANT REVIEW: Hyde Sunset Kitchen + Cocktails

By Michael Aushenker | Pali Life Editor

Our mission behind dropping by Sam Nazarian’s flagship club: specific—to taste Hyde’s new summer menu additions of cocktails, appetizers and entrees.

Coincidentally, this excursion took place on the 28^th anniversary of the release of the monumental, multi-platinum-selling album “Appetite for Destruction,” when Guns ‘N’ Roses led a hair metal scene bursting out of the Rainbow Room, the Roxy, the Whisky A Go Go and Gazzarri’s in West Hollywood and dominated the Billboard charts throughout the Reagan administration.

The timing on that milestone could not have been more apropos as hitting Hyde truly is the quintessential Sunset Strip experience—slick, modern environs with boulevard views and a decades-flipping soundtrack featuring familiar hits by Amy Winehouse, Culture Club, Franz Ferdinand, Modern English, The Shins, Nelly and Styx (“Domo Arigato, Mr. Roboto!”) that sonically radiated upbeat energy throughout the stylish nightclub.

July 7 saw the launch of Hyde’s summer fare, and their signature vanilla Absolut vodka-tinged drink The Love Unit notwithstanding, an extensive roster of new beverages included the Don Julio Anejo Tequila-fortified and orange bitters-accented Ancho Old Fashioned; the Lost in Bangkok, with its Belvedere Red Vodka, ginger ale, lime twist and Thai basil leaves; and the cheekily named Driving Miss Daisy, a play on the “sidecar,” the type of cocktail traditionally concocted with cognac, an orange liqueur such as Cointreau or Grand Marnier, and lemon juice; here, the Driving Miss Daisy entails Hennessey Cognac, Cointreau and orange and Chamomile textures.

Highlights among the brand new libations: certainly the Citrus Flower Sour, a skillfully unsweetened drink made with Citron vodka and egg whites that left in its wake a sea foam-like residue of fluff; and Le Parisian, a wonderful, handsome-looking concoction containing Grey Goose pear vodka and Germain Elderflower liquor with muddled fresh cucumber giving the whole affair a light, refreshing after taste.

Food-wise, the Peaches and Burrata starter—a mix of pretzel bread, peaches and pine nuts topped with a playful heaping of prosciutto—was a nice precursor for the delicious dishes to come: Grilled Half-Organic Chicken, kimchi-kissed slivers of poultry spliced over a bed of barley with Thai herbs and a pineapple jus accompaniment that was not as spicy as its Koreatown allusion might suggest; and the evening’s rock star: the walnut romesco-peppered 14 oz. Bone-in Rib Eye—absolutely savory and flavorful.

Afterwards, warm chocolate chip cookies with an espresso-milk dip were just enough dessert to placate our sweet tooth.

Other additions to Hyde’s summer menu include the Corn Crowdie, Kale and Ricotta Agnolotti, Seared Ahi Tuna and Fried Calamari.

With the weekend obviously peak club nights, our recommendation is to go on a slower evening, such as the Tuesday we clocked, in order to first experience the joint without the mess of fighting crowds and searching for seating (on a week night, Hyde has plenty, both inside and on its patio fringes).

“Welcome to the jungle/we’ve got fun and games,” wailed Axl Rose back in 1987. Sure, most games are for children, but this is one twist on “Hyde and seek” adults will want to play. Paradise City, baby!