RESTAURANT REVIEW: Herringbone

By MATTHEW MEYER | Reporter

Photos by Rich Schmitt | Staff Photographer

When Brian Malarkey’s second Herringbone location moved from West Hollywood to Santa Monica, it became abundantly clear that the restaurant belonged on Ocean Avenue all along.

“This place was built for Santa Monica,” Manager Michael Hahn told the Palisadian-Post. “It was meant to be here.”

Hahn is right. The restaurant’s sprawling, 7,400-square-foot dining room screams “Santa Monica,” from its high ceilings and brightly lit oyster bar to its well-executed nautical themes (ample use of rope and metallic sea-life; not cheesy steering wheels and captain’s hats).

It’s unambiguously upscale, with a diverse menu of prized seafood and steaks, a polished, swanky aesthetic and, yes, steep prices.

But Herringbone is also unpretentious, in a laidback, coastal kind of way. You don’t have to be a connoisseur of fine seafood to feel comfortable at a table here. Hahn described our waiter—the enthusiastic, knowledgeable Jude Matalavage—as “hanging out with us for a while.”

And that’s what it felt like, as Matalavage patiently explained the intricacies of each dish, and made recommendations based on both our personal preferences and his own passion for the offerings. It wasn’t just for us—at nearby tables, we saw servers happily breaking down the menu for all their patrons.

Good service isn’t too much to ask, but a friendly, knowledgeable staff is especially important at a place like Herringbone, where some of the menu’s absolute standouts might be a little intimidating for the uninitiated.

Take the Whole Fish Ceviche, a starter that Matalavage spoke about with such genuinely glowing praise that we had no choice but to feel confident in our selection. It’s a whole fish alright, the entire “branzino” (European seabass, caught off the coast of Italy) with its head and tail left whole on the plate to frame chunks of fresh, raw meat, cured by citrus juice and served with Fresno chilis and cilantro.

Elsewhere, ceviche might be thrown together from the scraps. At Herringbone, they commit to proving its high quality by presenting you with the whole fish—and it’s a prized one at that, well selected for raw consumption based on its mild taste.

The meat is impossibly tender and tasty, nicely paired with a salsa verde to create an all-star dish. And though its looks might be intimidating, our waiter’s confidence gave us the nudge we needed to eat one of the most delicious items of the night. Well done.

For something altogether different, try the Buffalo Octopus, Herringbone’s “answer to hot wings.” It’s two tender tentacles served on black-eyed peas, celery and carrots with plenty of buffalo sauce. The meat is nicely textured—void of any chewiness—and the sauce gives it a nice kick, if making it a touch on the salty side. Overall, another strong offering.

Looking to share a taste of everything? The Dinghy, Sail Boat and Yacht (in ascending order of quantity and price) make great options to share across the table. These samplers offer oysters, Alaskan king crab, Maine lobster and jumbo shrimp, served on a bowl of ice with five sauces. The presentation—and taste—is excellent.

For mains, we tried the Chilean Sea Bass, served with vegetables from the farmers market and potatoes. The fish is fantastic, with a crisp crunch to the outer body that gives it a satisfying texture and meat that seems to melt in your mouth.

Yet, somehow, despite all the fantastic sea-fare we enjoyed, the star of the main courses may have actually been the 16-Oz Prime Bone-In Rib-Eye.

As Matalavage told it: “There’s two kinds of seafood places. The ‘Don’t Get Anything But Seafood Places,’ and the ones that are so paranoid [about that distinction] that everything else is amazing.”

Herringbone is the latter, he insisted. We wholeheartedly agree.

The steak—dry-aged for 21 days—is simply impeccable, cooked to medium-rare perfection with a crisp exterior and juicy, tender meat. We added scallops (an option on most dinner plates for the surf ‘n’ turf-inclined) and were also impressed, particularly at the lack of “fluff” for their size. Pairing a steak with a taste of Herringbone’s sea-fare on the side makes an excellent option for any visit.

Wash it down with a wide array of cocktails, served at your table or the restaurant’s lively bar. If you’re a fan of tequila, try That’s One Hot Cucumber, mixed with Maestro Dobel and served with a cucumber/jalapeno spear. It packs a punch without being overpowering. The Better Mules & Gardens is a subtle, sweeter option that makes for a (dangerously) drinkable vodka offering.

If you want to test the waters on this place, you can always grab one of these drinks during the restaurant’s Oyster Happy Hour (4:30-6:30 p.m. on weeknights) and enjoy $1 oysters with your cocktail. It’s a nice way to start an evening out in Santa Monica, though you’ll likely wish you’d made a dinner reservation by the time you leave.

In general, Herringbone is just a lovely space, with a smooth electronic soundtrack, plenty of room to sit and chat at a comfortable distance from other tables, and fantastic décor, including a massive, living wall of foliage on the far end and two sunny outdoor decks lined with planter boxes (especially popular for brunch, Hahn told us).

Pair that with its versatile menu and impeccable service, and Herringbone stands out among the class of stiff competition vying for a visit just down the road from Pacific Palisades.