RESTAURANT REVIEW: Barton G.

861 N. La Cienega Blvd. | Los Angeles, CA 90069 | 310-388-1888 | www.bartongtherestaurantla.com | Prices: $$$

By ANGELA DE FELICE | Food & Style Writer

There is dinner theater and then there’s theatrical dining. That is how an eating adventure at Barton G. can be described. While not exactly a chef-driven restaurant, the culinary team brings to life the imaginings of creator Barton G. Weiss. To his many fans, the props are just as compelling as the ingredients.

Weiss began his career as a celebrity and Fortune 500 event planner before opening the original incarnation of Barton G. in Miami. An opulent second outpost might have been expected to land in Vegas, however, we lucky Angelenos can indulge in the hedonistic and quirky cuisine right in our own playground – West Hollywood.

Your experience is likely to begin with cocktails, and lots of accompanying knick-knacks. If you opt for a Specialty Cocktail, be sure to wait for the smoke to clear before sipping. Liquid nitrogen is used to create a sense of drama to potions like the Sabrinatini. This signature martini, complete with champagne swizzle stick and dangling chocolate monkey, is served on a rhinestone-encrusted photo of Audrey Hepburn. The fruit-forward Buddhalicious is served on a mirror guarded by small gilded Buddha statuary.

After a few sips it would be easy to mistake the bread for dessert. When the tray comes around you’ll be tempted to sample one of each doughnut-inspired rolls frosted with cheese, truffle or basil. Try to contain your enthusiasm – there’s plenty more fun to come.

Consider ordering the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp. The deep-fried shrimp is served with spiced popcorn in a “vintage” movie theater popcorn maker. Dip the shrimp in the accompanying sriracha aioli and sweet chili sesame sauces to add a little pop to the appetizer. It should be mentioned it is best to go with a larger group – not only are the portions generous, you’ll want to sample as many treats as you can in this sensory journey.

The restaurant itself is a feast for the eyes. One wall is adorned with live orchids while another is covered in wool felt. Each table is illuminated with pink Himalayan rock salt votives. You can sink into the dozens of pillows surrounding the banquettes while waiters wearing $400 leather lamé aprons happily participate in Weiss’ fantasies. This is one hospitality gig an aspiring actor may actually enjoy.

While serving the Rake and Ho Garden, your waiter may play the role of horticulturist. Assembling a tasty salad of miniature greens and veggies with an actual rake and ho into a terracotta pot filled with “earth” (quinoa), and topping it all with pumpkin and flax seeds from custom Barton G. seed packets is a clever approach to the salad course. It suddenly became clear why there was a children’s birthday party taking place – what better way to get kids to eat their greens?

Before we get too caught up in healthy foods, enter the decadent Lobster Trap Truffle Mac and Cheese. A terrine of pasta spirals bathed and baked in a three-cheese lobster sauce is placed inside a whimsical oversized mousetrap. A generous blanket of truffle is shaved tableside. It’s as good as it sounds and works best as a little side dish.

In addition to the plethora of starters and sides, there is an array of seasonal fish and fowl dishes to choose from – we enjoyed veal chops served from a miniature apple crate with a side of beignets.

If ever there is an excuse to skip dessert, this is not the time or place. While dozens of Instagrammers hashtagged Let Them Eat Cake as they pulled the pink candy floss “hair” from Marie Antoinette’s “head,” we ate potted pies disguised as plants. Once again we explored the dreamlike jardin à la Barton G. Weiss. Six pies – from Mississippi Mud to Banana Cream – are deconstructed and reassembled in individual terracotta planters in the Pot Pie Garden extravaganza. Served on a tray complete with gardening glove, spilled “earth” (chocolate cookies crumbs), and gardening tools, there was never a better time to take up an interest in the art of floriculture.