MARI VANNA
8475 Melrose Place
Los Angeles
(323) 620-9295
If you are looking for a new dining adventure–something Russian in nature–then pay a visit to Mari Vanna, located just east of the Beverly Center. This international eatery originated in St. Petersburg and expanded to New York and Washington, D.C. Now we Angelenos can enjoy their warm home-style hospitality.
The charming old-style house offers a plant filled patio entry with a number of interior rooms: a classic old-world dining room filled with vintage paraphernalia and a fireplace, a sunroom, an intimate 20-seat bar and a wine and karaoke lounge.
My daughter and I chose the sunroom, with its cool ambiance, in the evening. The rear wall of running water decorated with watering cans provided a pleasing sound backdrop invoking a bygone era, as did the extensive and careful service (although the servers were casually dressed to let us know we are in the modern era).
Seated with your cocktail, made of course with pure Russian vodka, you can enjoy the two varieties of wheat bread served on a wooden board with two tiny dipping bowls, one with salt and the other with olive oil. The menu is fairly extensive, so you may find that all of the tasty bread has been devoured while you search for what compels you.
In addition to salads, there are cold appetizers and hot appetizers. When you finally make your decision, the table is cleared for a new fork and knife (nicely old school). We opted to share both the hot and cold appetizers. Soleniya was an assortment of pickled vegetables served in a pretty ceramic dish, and included tasty pickles, skinless tomatoes and cabbage topped with onion and a drizzle of sunflower oil. It made a delightful start. Handmade Russian dumplings called veal pelmeni were filled with flavor from herbs and butter, enhanced with a sour-cream topping and served in a warm bowl.
Before the main course, we were served tiny glasses of a raspberry and pear vodka to refresh out taste buds. It worked. We were ready for the heralded beef stroganoff that was indeed excellent. Composed of thinly-sliced filet mignon in a light cream sauce accented with fresh thyme, and pickles along with a potato purée, this was indeed a delicious entrée served in a hot skillet. Fish kotletki, made with lightly-breaded fish patties composed of trout and pike, were also served in a hot skillet. These, too, were delightful. With them came green peas and home-style potatoes.
With everything from Russian crepes to vareniki (homemade dumplings), the dessert menu is also extensive. Happily, we were advised to try the Napoleon, with its layers of puff pastry and vanilla cream and fresh strawberries. A rich and delightful end to our fascinating dinner.
Just enjoying the lively atmosphere and looking at all the intriguing décor, from the dangling chandeliers to the antique cupboards filled with trinkets, while also looking at the diners and bar patrons, keeps the setting interesting. We also enjoyed the accordion player who wandered through the restaurant to provide a little entertainment.
Mari Vanna serves lunch Monday through Saturday from noon to 4 p.m. On Sundays, brunch is from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner service starts nightly at 5 p.m. After 11 p.m. there is a late-night menu to accompany bar patrons, as the bar is open until 2 a.m.
Prices are:
Salads: $9 to $14
Soups: $10 to $12
Cold Appetizers: $11 to $19
Hot Appetizers: $15 to $18 (with caviar $29 to $115)
Main Courses: $20 to $27
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