CAULFIELD’S Bar and Dining Room
9360 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills • (310) 388-6860
This recently renovated bar and restaurant inside the Thompson hotel sounded particularly interesting because of Chef Stephen Kalt’s move to Beverly Hills to command the kitchen with his signature dishes accented with California and Mediterranean influences. Chef Kalt has been featured in a number of national magazines as a “one to watch” professional in the hospitality industry.
The restaurant’s newly updated design has an Art Deco vibe, with its comfy custom-leather armchairs, an antiqued mirror backing the bar, leather banquette seating and an array of light fixtures throughout, along with a 12-seat communal table in the bar. The atmosphere is relaxing and welcoming, and the bar is separated from the dining room by a glass window, which keeps the sound level perfect for conversation.
Our waiter suggested two items from the “bread and small plates” menu. The first was burrata with butternut squash, dried figs and capers with balsamic vinegar and a little basil ($12), which had outstanding flavor with its fascinating interplay of ingredients. The second, excellent small-eye tuna tartare with pepperoncini (Tuscan peppers with a touch of sweetness), cornichon (those wonderful little tart French pickles), capers and chopped egg, with lime as an accent, was filled with a zippy flavor that was particularly tasty on very thin toast ($18).
Other small plates include grilled flatbread ($8); a purée of tomato and artichoke soup ($11); Brussels sprouts with capers, shallots and sherry vinegar ($12); latkes with salmon caviar and crème fraîche ($14); and house-smoked steelhead trout in a jar with crème fraîche, egg, pickled fennel, radish and toast ($16).
The dozen large plates include a phyllo pastry Napoleon of spinach, Swiss chard and broccolini with roasted carrots, fennel and parsnips for $21 (perfect for vegetarians), several fish selections, a brined and fried chicken with whipped potatoes and gravy ($23), beef short rib ($26) and even a lamb hamburger with cucumber, yogurt, lettuce and hand-cut fries ($15).
Our choices were acorn-fed Spanish pork that was handsomely arrayed with carrots, pears and Medjool dates, Brussels sprout leaves and pomegranate. This divergent interplay of flavors was most compelling, and made the pork worth its price of $42. Skirt steak marinated in soy with red vermouth and ginger ($31) had a vibrant flavor and was served exactly as ordered, medium rare. It was a terrific steak.
The interesting cheese selections listed are at the bottom of the menu with varieties under cow, sheep, goat and mixed milk, and where each cheese came from. These cheeses will be my choice on my next visit.
Desserts vary from caramelized Fuji-apple crumble to seascape strawberries and more, and all are priced at $12. My daughter-in-law and I selected the Florentine doughnuts with cinnamon sugar. Just a bite or two with coffee is a genuine treat.
The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., with brunch served every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Street parking is available on Crescent Drive, and the hotel offers valet parking during all operating hours ($4 at lunch and $8 all other times with validation).
LOCANDA DEL LAGO
231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica • (310) 451-3525
This restaurant, featuring the traditional flavors of Bellagio on Lake Como in Italy, is celebrating its 22nd anniversary with a special menu from Chef Gianfranco Minuz through April 25. This menu is a thank-you to the restaurant’s loyal patrons and to their neighborhood colleagues as well as to any diners who wish to join them. The menu goes back to 1991 in both flavor and price, making the two-course dinner only $22, with choices including whitefish ravioli, breaded perch and all-natural Durazo milk-fed pork stew. The three-course choice is $36, and a four-course dinner is $48. Wine tasting to accompany the meal is $18. Congratulations to founder West Hooker and his staff.
CORRECTION
In my article last week on Casa Nostra downtown I gave the address correctly—825 W. Ninth Street—but the restaurant is next to the famous Pantry on Figueroa, not the Tavern.
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