Gavin’s Gastronomy (Part II)

Palisadian Andy Gavin, best-selling science fiction novelist and world-beating video game designer, is preparing to open his first restaurant. He is also a famed food blogger. Last week, as a preview of the tastes we may enjoy, the Palisadian-Post published a sprinkling of Gavin’s restaurant reviews, which date back to 2010, from the classical French bakery of Alain Giraud to the latest ramen sensation. Here is a final selection from many hundreds of reviews to whet the appetite from the blog, andy-gavin-eats.com. Again, bon appetit!

Holy Cow BBQ | 264 26th St., Santa Monica, CA 90402   ·   (310) 883-6269

 Holy Cow is within spitting distance of the Palisades, just a few short blocks up Allenford/26th into Santa Monica/Brentwood. It’s a fairly simple affair with a hybrid fast-casual, full-service approach. You order at the counter and they bring it to you. Because you pay first—and because barbecue is slow cooked anyway—the whole experience is quite fast and convenient. I’m not a massive fan of their sides. The Mac & Cheese wasn’t cheesy enough. The Fried Cornbread was dry. The Onion Rings were good though, if oddly expensive (for onion rings). But the meats are solid. This is not the Memphis style sweet barbecue, but more a Texan/North Carolina hybrid. Maybe? I’m no barbecue encyclopedia. But The Hog, a pulled BBQ pork sandwich with Carolina sauce (read vinegar!), slaw and crispy onion is pretty delectable. The hot links are solid rods of fatty goodness. The pulled pork by itself tender. The tri-tip OK. The brisket excellent on a good day. And pretty good but not to-die-for ribs. Are there better barbecue places in town? Yeah. But Holy Cow is modern in style, good, fairly reasonable (for Brentwood) and convenient. All in all, worth a trip. I just wish they’d fix up the sides.

Pearl Dragon | 15229 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades, CA 90272  ·   (310)459-9790

I haven’t been to Pearl Dragon in a while, although I’m not sure why, as I used to go all the time. It’s long been the Palisades’ liveliest restaurant at night—and pretty much the Village’s only full bar. And this in a town where after 9 p.m. many of the dinner spots get about as much traffic as the Alaskan tundra in January. The Pearl’s kitschy Asian-fusion décor is dialed in with the menu at about 1999. And you might even hear the Prince song on the loudspeakers over the welcoming din of the sushi bar. In some ways, this is really two restaurants in the same space. The hot kitchen serves up dishes like Crispy Sesame Beef and Salmon Teriyaki that were once LA chic but are now comfort food. Execution is solid, but not going to compete with the city’s power players. Then in the back is a fairly unassuming L of a sushi bar, where if you ignore the over-sauced rolls on the menu and push the chefs to make something interesting, you can get fine fish—and strike up conversations with friends and strangers alike. The place has a tipsy charm to it. Where else in town can you meet someone and toss down oyster, caviar, tobacco shooters followed by Patron?

Sam’s by the Beach | 108 W Channel Rd., Santa Monica, CA 90402  ·   (310)230-9100

The second time I went to Sam’s (and this is back more than 15 years ago) was about two years after the first. Owner and Chef Sam Elias not only remembered me, but he remembered exactly what I ordered! A hundred visits later, I’m convinced Sam is one of the best hosts in the entire city. His courtesy and dedication are unparalleled. He’ll adjust any dish. Dig back in the kitchen for specials the staff don’t even know. Share his wine. Arrange for a private party of 20 on a day’s notice. The atmosphere is intimate and romantic, with cushions and booths that blend French and Middle-Eastern elements, like Sam’s cooking marries influences from France and his native Syria. But along with the incredible warmth, what really keeps us coming back is the amazing food. I’ve had Fried Soft Shells on Arugula with tangy vinaigrette. The Dijon Lamb Chops are stunners. The delicate Lamb, Lemon and Feta Risotto is to die for. The Spaghetti with Seafood and Squid Ink blended with Syrian spices stunning. And it should not be forgotten that Sam offers some of the best classic Bread Pudding and Creme Brûlée in the city. Yum! Sam’s is an underrated gem of a restaurant.