FOOD & STYLE: Pearl Dragon

15229 Sunset Blvd.

Pacific Palisades, CA 90272

310-459-9790

thepearldragon.com

Price: $$

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

It’s easy to take Pearl Dragon for granted. Few restaurants in the heart of the Village have stuck around so long as a go-to destination. Plus: that glorious bar with nightly happy hours.

So we decided it was high time to revisit this chestnut and remind ourselves why we enjoy returning here over the years.

Along with hostess Kareasia Dunbar-Jones, Chris Johansen (manager here for half of Pearl Dragon’s 16 years) welcomed us into the inviting space at this historic address.

The pan-Asian restaurant opened in 2000, and while it supplanted the legendary, long-running House of Lee Chinese restaurant, Pearl Dragon has certainly proven itself on its own merits.

We started out dinner experience straight from Chef Ryo Akimoto’s kitchen—the small plates. We launched our meal with Ahi Tuna Tartar ($16), a small fortress of ahi and avocado, with pickled ginger, green onions embedded within. Topped with Masago flying fish caviar, chili oil and spicy aioli, this appetizer proved scrumptious and light; the nice soft amalgam perfect for scooping up with the surrounding wonton crisps on the plate. Fresh and bright Kanpachi Sashimi ($15), its slivers of baby yellowtail sashimi attractively splayed on a plate colored by citrus black truffle oil, benefited mightily from that truffle aftertaste.

Determined to represent every corner of Asian cuisine, a Spicy Thai Papaya Salad ($14.50) can be had here, arriving with rock shrimp and peanuts. Small plates also include Green Tea Smoked Chicken Rolls ($11) while other items include Miso Soup and Sunomono ($4.50 each) and Udon or Soba ($14-16, depending on add-ons).

OK, bring on the bad guys because here comes one wicked meal! The signature Makimoto Roll ($11.50; $18) is the cornerstone of Makimoto Mondays at this establishment (a Happy Hour tradition during which said roll can be ordered at a discount); a colorful, snaking sushi roll packed tight with California crab, spicy tuna and tempura asparagus and topped with garlic seared tuna and avocado. Enough to feed two people, the Makimoto does not disappoint.

Blessed with beautiful presentation, Spicy Tuna Rock Shrimp Tempura Roll ($14.50) seduces the eye and the stomach with its luscious array of spicy tuna and cucumber, wrapped in soy paper and topped with spicy rock shrimp tempura; all piled high atop the zig-zags of ponzu across your plate.

A tender, mouthwatering Canadian fish steak marinated in miso and mirin with a teriyaki glaze, Salmon Teriyaki ($21) rests atop a hulking onion ring, accompanied by wok-fired garlic and ginger snap peas. But if that’s too much seafood, Chef Akimoto also serves Rib Eye Steak Teriyaki ($26), Organic Chicken Teriyaki ($19) or Kalbi Beef Short Ribs ($21).

Outside of Asian fare, there’s the reliable Wing Ding Burger ($13; $14 with cheese), a juicy, half-pound sirloin patty topped with lettuce, tomato, white onion, dill pickles and dressing. The Wing Ding carries historic import and a connection to the location’s storied past as a classic holdover from House of Lee’s menu. Served with Szechwan (thin) fries, it largely lives up to its legend, although the pickles kind of degrade it with a fast-food aftertaste. That’s an easy fix though and a minor critique of an otherwise beloved burger.

Hopefully, you’ll save room to satisfy your sweet tooth. A few good moves here: Banana Dragon ($8), wonton-wrapped and lightly fried, covered in banana ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces and candied walnuts; Mochi ($6), the traditional Japanese ice cream-filled dough balls (available here in red bean, green tea, chocolate, strawberry and vanilla); and two different sizes of Dragon Sundae ($4; $7). Chocolate Lava Cake ($8.50) may be the best road taken. Moist, sweet cake served with chocolate syrup, vanilla bean ice cream and strawberry slices—not to mention a couple of Pocky sticks spearing through it—this monster of a sundae-esque experience, coupled with a cup of cappuccino, makes for the perfect finish on your meal.

Of course, Pearl Dragon is also known for its bar. Here, you’ll find just about every type of wine and spirit you could ask for, plus a range of sake to accompany your sushi and sashimi. We enjoyed Kuromatsu Hakushika, an elegant, fresh, light Junmai cold sake with a hint of mocha. We also ordered Kirin Ichiban beer to go with our Salmon Teriyaki and a pair of Pearl Dragon’s grandiose hand-crafted drinks: the classic Mai Tai ($10.50), a dark and light rum-based Tiki room favorite filled with mysterious fruit juices and spirits that restaurant staff refuses to divulge; and The Pearl ($11), the house’s signature cocktail, concocted of vodka, cranberry, pineapple juice and peach schnapps. Other options include several martinis (key lime, lychee, cucumber, espresso; $11-12); Asian Mint Mojito ($12); and another Tiki favorite, the Scorpion Bowl ($10; $18).

As we expected, Pearl Dragon filled to the gills right before our eyes (even on a Tuesday night), and contrary to rumors, Pearl Dragon will not be affected by the building of Caruso’s mall complex and will not, at any point, close during construction.

So like a reliable old friend, Pearl Dragon will be there for you whenever you’re up for a visit.