RESTAURANT REVIEW: Napa Valley Grille

1100 Glendon Avenue | Los Angeles, CA 90024 | 310-824-3322 | napavalleygrille.com | Price: $$$

By ALEXANDRIA BORDAS | Reporter

The golden-tinted hillsides of Napa Valley, California have inspired wine connoisseurs to travel from all over the globe to indulge in some of the finest wines bottled by world-renowned vintners. Lately, adventurous cuisine has been making a huge impression on the Valley and the Los Angeles jewel Napa Valley Grille Restaurant is recreating the wine country escape close to home featuring delectable dishes and award-winning wines.

My dining companion and I were warmly greeted and escorted to a beautiful outdoor patio where soft white lighting set a casual, relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere to accompany the seven dishes we planned on sharing. As I have visited the Napa Valley region before, I was looking forward to seeing how my dining adventure at Napa Valley Grille would compare to my time in the wine heartland.

Almost immediately after being seated the sommelier approached our table and expertly explained the many wines we would taste as pairings with each dish.

He started us off with a specialty cocktail crafted by the bartender called Smoke On The Water, which was of course smoking upon arrival at our table. Its sultry smoky taste—along with tequila and watermelon juice to balance the flavors—made it one of my favorites of the evening.

From the Starters menu, we nibbled on a restaurant favorite, Watermelon Salad, and a savory Charcuterie platter.

The Watermelon Salad, unusual yet refreshing, consisted of burrata cheese, watermelon foam and heirloom tomatoes.

We shared four main dishes, each surprising in its own way. In every bite, there were combinations of savory spices and inconspicuous seasonings, like the boldly original blueberry rice and the modest almond couscous.

Executive Chef Andrew Bice presented each entrée, sharing with us in great detail the inspiration behind each creation.

One of Bice’s favorite dishes on the menu, the Duck Breast, comes with his personal concoction of blueberry rice.

“It’s not every day you can cook blueberry rice so it’s always exciting when a guest orders this dish,” Bice said.

Do not let the small portion of duck fool you, it is mouthwatering and supple as each bite oozes duck jus.

One of the more noteworthy aspects of the dining extravaganza was Bice’s use of color in each dish.

Bice makes a point to attract diners with their eyes first and then their palates. He doesn’t shy away from yellows, blues, reds and purples and I couldn’t help but giddily smile in anticipation as Bice presented his popping creations.

For fresh fish dishes, diners cannot go wrong with the California Wild Seabass or Scottish Salmon, which are both served with lemon-zested vegetables.

One of my favorite dishes of the entire evening, the seabass arrived with apricot purée and za’atar oil drizzled on top. Grilled to perfection, every bite was incredibly flavorful – it was one of the best pieces of fish I have ever tasted.

For those who enjoy heartier portions, consider the tender Colorado Lamb with confit pee-wee potatoes and rainbow carrots. The tarragon yogurt sauce’s minty undertones balanced the rich flavor.

For red meat lovers, Bice also recommends the Prime Rib Chop.

As the warm summer night slowly descended, the Cheeseboard was a welcome sight.

Artfully arranged, the cheeseboard featured cheeses from Spain, France and California along with truffle honey, strawberry mostarda and quince paste.

Although we chose not to over-indulge with dessert on this occasion, more adventurous diners may want to try the notorious golden Cinnamon Roll. For chocolate lovers, go for the Chocolate Marquis—flourless chocolate cake, strawberries and vanilla ice cream.

Throughout our dining journey the sommelier frequented our table to discuss the importance of wine pairings. He poured a Pinot Noir from the Central Coast, Cabernet Sauvignon bottled in Sonoma County and a Sauvignon Blanc out of Napa Valley.

Bice’s decades of experience are truly on display at Napa Valley Grille and his confidence is not misdirected. Trained throughout Europe, he started out by knocking on doors asking to be an apprentice so he could learn from veteran international culinary chefs.

Upon returning to the United States, he worked as the executive chef at The Oak Room in New York City’s Plaza Hotel and served as the executive chef at the Shelborne Wyndham Grand Hotel in Miami Beach before calling Napa Valley Grille his home.

Bice has a fervent passion for delivering the freshest and most cutting-edge dishes to his guests and stands out amongst the crowd of Los Angeles-based chefs vying to be noticed.

Open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Napa Valley Grille offers Happy Hour and dinner seven days a week.