By LIBBY MOTIKA Senior Editor I have often thought of ‘high tea’ as I do an hour and a half massage’too rich, too much of a good thing. However, the Getty Villa’s interpretation of afternoon tea, inspired by the herbs, vegetables and fruits that grow in the Villa’s recreated first-century garden, caught my attention. The experience is all together in proper proportion, beginning with the setting in the intimate Founders Room, which seats up to a dozen tables, to the food, which is more akin to a tasting menu, offering an alternative to the standard English tea. Reservations are a must, as the service is offered Thursdays and Saturdays at 1 p.m. only. The room is plain, but elegant, with large picture windows overlooking the museum, and from our table, a landscape with a centerpiece stone pine. The tables are nicely spaced, allowing for comfortable conversation. And there are three servers, who are attentive to their guests’ needs, providing ample description of the menu items and responding to special requests. We started with lavender-infused black tea, although there was also an Earl Grey with a hint of vanilla. For an additional fee, one can order red or white wine or prosecco. We elected a pinot grigio. The repast begins with a basket of house-made scones, studded with Mediterranean fruit, and tea breads. When we were ready for our food, the server brought a four-tier caddy with hot specials on the top plate’which included a mini spinach and artichoke calzone and a corn and chicken potpie. I would have preferred the savory dishes to begin, as I am not too fond of eating sweets at the start of a meal. The warm bites were followed on the descending plate by a salmon terrine with toasted baguette. This was like spreading salmon-infused sea foam on crisp toast. A lovely consistency and light blend of tastes. The next plate featured a tiny roast beef with honey whole-grain mustard on a brioche roll and sundried tomato jam with fresh mozzarella and arugula on six-grain bread. These were fresh, crisp and a welcome departure from the usual tea sandwich fare. Dessert was a small sample of Mrs. Garrett’s carrot cake, chocolate truffles and ginger sandwich cookies with lemon cream. These were a perfect complement to the meal. The carrot cake would be familiar to the many who enjoyed it in the former Tea Room of the Villa before it was closed for remodeling in 1997. The recipe was the invention of Jean Garrett, whose husband, Stephen, was the first director of the Getty Museum. Jean was pedigreed as a highly professional cook in London, who also wrote extensively and lectured throughout England. When the couple arrived from London to take over their duties in Los Angeles in 1973, it became clear that there would be occasions that could necessitate food service. As Stephen Garrett recalled in an interview last year, ‘Jean began to assemble a team of volunteers to assist in catering when occasions arose and, at the same time, experimenting with what might be appropriate recipes. Following Mr. Getty’s instructions, the financial support for all it was minimal, but Jean and her volunteers begged, borrowed, and dug in their own gardens to make sure that all went well.’ Mrs. Garrett’s carrot cake is a reminder of the pioneering work that Jean Garrett did in the Villa’s early days. The cake is perhaps most remarkable for its fresh and moist consistency. The frosting, a cream-cheese icing, is enhanced with crushed pineapple and walnuts. A recipe is provided for guests to try themselves. Having sampled various teas around Los Angeles’the Peninsula Hotel, the Montage, Rose Tea Cottage, even the Huntington Gardens’I vote this the very best. Not only is the food fresh, and beautifully prepared, with promised seasonal adjustments (and even a gluten-free option), but also the atmosphere is completely conducive to a nice, leisurely afternoon. Because my friend and I were enjoying our conversation and the slowed down afternoon, we forwent the culinary-inspired tour of the Villa Gardens at 2:30 p.m. Having visited these museum and gardens many times, I offered my guest a tour of the herb garden after our tea, where we were able to see the Roman attention to the culinary arts: grapes, pomegranate and figs and citrus serving as a barrier for the seasonal beds. The tea ($36 per person, plus tax and 18 percent gratuity) includes a museum and gardens visit. An additional $15 charge for parking seems a bit much and perhaps should be waived for tea customers. To make a reservation, call (800) 369-3059 or email BonAppetitReservatioins@getty.edu.
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