By PATRICK FRANK | Special to the Palisadian-Post
Q: What wine can I serve this Thanksgiving that will surprise my guests?
Excellent question. This year might be a wonderful moment to produce such a surprise at your Thanksgiving table because, as the world in general becomes more and more preposterous, new input can be refreshing. Moreover, the typical Thanksgiving dinner is such a mixture of meats, dressings, sauces and vegetables that no one wine is likely to pair wonderfully with everything we serve. This fact should free you up to think creatively. Here are a few new concepts that go beyond what’s expected, and could perk up a traditional meal:
Think local. The customary wines to serve with the bird are Pinot Noir in the reds and Chardonnay in the whites. Why not add some flair by serving a Southern California version? We are all becoming locavores these days, as more and more cooks and restaurants are emphasizing locally sourced ingredients. So let’s extend that to the wine selection by serving something that was not flown in at a cost to our ozone layer. The best Pinots and Chardonnays in SoCal seem to come from the Sta. Rita Hills region, especially Longoria, Chanin, Brewer-Clifton and Foxen.
Think organic. Although there is no official legal definition for the term “organic wine,” there are a few characteristics winemakers who aspire to this tag share in common. Among them are organic vineyard growing conditions, wild yeast fermentations, very little manipulation in the cellar and no new oak barrels for aging. Yes, that list sounds like a series of “thou shalt nots,” but organic wines often have bright, fresh flavors and sprightly semi-tartness, which can make them quite refreshing. They can be distinctive, however, so I advise tasting for yourself before purchasing for the guests. Reputable producers include Bonterra, Frey and La Clarine Farm.
Think American. Thanksgiving is celebrated in the USA like nowhere else, so why not serve something typically American? Zinfandel. I know, the Zinfandel grape did not originate in the USA—it came from Croatia—but our clonal selections and climate make California Zinfandel unique. If you have not tried Zin lately because you found it too heavy or overcooked, well, a growing number of Zin makers are dialing it back in a nice way. They are picking earlier and going easy on the oak barrels, which leads to lighter and more aromatic wines. Seek out Williams-Selyem, Seghesio, Bedrock and Ravenswood.
Think sparkling. I have never understood why people reserve sparkling wines for weddings, graduations, retirement parties, etc. Bubbly is delicious and very versatile. For Thanksgiving I might recommend a Blanc de Noirs, which is made from red grapes and shows a pale blush of pink; it will stand up to the food. Schramsberg, Chandon and Gruet should fill the bill and get the table bubbling with conversation.
Thanksgiving exists primarily to help us celebrate earth’s bounty. With a little creative thinking, the beverage on your table can refresh the meal, as well as help get your guests in the right mood.
About our new columnist: A former manager of a wine store in Marin County, Patrick Frank studied sensory evaluation of wine at UC Davis and at the Napa Valley Wine
Library. After, he said, he decided to pose as an intellectual by earning a Ph.D. in art history, he wrote five books about modern art.
This page is available to subscribers. Click here to sign in or get access.
