The Cellar

Q: Is canned wine a thing?

Canned wine today is just about where rosé was 10 years ago: A down-market product that most serious wine drinkers avoided. But like rosé today, that’s about to change because sales of canned wine are exploding.

According to Business Insider, $2 million in canned wine sales in 2012 has ballooned to $14.5 million in 2016. Out of a total $60 billion in wine sales, that’s not much, but it’s a huge increase. What was once a novelty is becoming a market segment.

Those swelling ranks of consumers see the obvious advantages of the new format: A can is lighter than a bottle, unbreakable, easier to pack into a picnic, friendlier to recycling, and it delivers a glass or two instead of a bottle, which you may not finish.

Some younger winemakers have embraced aluminum. Ryan Harms of Oregon’s Underwood Wines said, “With cans, we embrace the artistry of making great wine, minus all the fuss. And we’ve remained committed to our original mission of bringing craft quality and affordable Oregon wines to people’s tables for everyday occasions. We love our wine, we just don’t drink it with our pinkies in the air.”

Thus was born the Instagram-friendly social media campaign “Pinkies Down.”

Field Recordings Wines of Paso Robles sees an overlap with craft beer drinkers.

“It’s good for the overall wine business if we have more options,” winemaker Andrew Jones said. “We want more people to enjoy wine, and if we have more options, then we can capture people for their daily drink. The average beer drinker, for example, can wrap their head around these a little more.”

Under its Alloy label, Field Recordings has canned several releases and even flavors one of them with hops.

Makers of canned wine are marketing primarily to younger people. You see this in the designs of many cans, which have unconventional images, unusual type fonts and colorful slogans.

Case in point: Infinite Monkey Theorem, which boasts the slogan “Ridiculously good wine in a can” along with the face of a chimp. Most brands have full social media presences and well-designed websites that show millennials enjoying the product in informal settings.

One of the trend leaders is the Kingfisher Bar in Washington, D.C., which sells only canned wine.

“Wine in a can is different and unique, and it appeals to people who are a bit more forward-thinking,” manager Sam Buis said.

So, how is the quality?

It’s a jungle out there. Most fine-wine shops do not stock them, probably for that reason. Many canned white wines veer too far toward the sweet, while many reds have juiced-up spice flavors from soakings in wood chips.

However, the recommended wines are all solid and serviceable, pleasant to drink and fit well outdoors where an event or a picnic is the primary attraction. Prices are modest, the equivalent of about $12 a bottle and often less.

So yes, canned wine is a thing, and it could be your thing, if you choose carefully.

This Month’s Recommended Wines: Wine in a Can

Underwood Oregon Pinot Gris

Off-dry, with floral and pear notes and a stony finish. $7, at BevMo

Coppola Diamond Collection Sauvignon Blanc

Lemon and smoke on the nose with a light texture and
citrus finish. $17, four-pack at Gelson’s

Alloy Wine & Works Everyday Rosé

Pale copper color, with strawberry and floral notes and a crisp texture. $7, four-pack at BevMo

West Side Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium color and weight, bringing black cherry and spice notes. $3, at Whole Foods