The Cellar

Q: I’m getting tired of Chardonnay as an everyday white wine. What else is there?

Pinot Gris should be on everyone’s radar. It’s the grape most closely related to Pinot Noir, and it often delivers solid quality and versatility at a tempting price.

Note that I did not say Pinot Grigio. This is the same grape, but most Pinot Grigio, especially the type that we find in supermarkets, is often bland from over-cropping. For best results, look to Alsace in France or to Oregon, where Pinot Gris is a specialty.

Pinot Gris is a strange grape. It’s a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir, and its fruit lies about halfway between white and red; light purple comes close to describing it. It tends to develop a high sugar level early in the season, which facilitates large-scale production in warmer climates. But in regions where there is a longer, cooler growing season, quality shoots up.

A range of styles is possible. By harvesting on the early side, winemakers can choose to make a bright and crisp version; waiting a week or two yields a softer, rounder wine. In either case, vineyard managers train the vines so that direct sunlight hits the fruit.

Most winemakers press the juice off the skins immediately, as is typical for a white wine. After fermentation, many of the best producers leave the wine on its lees (spent yeast) for a few months; this extra step lends the finished wine an attractive stony or minerally quality. Oak aging tends to be minimal, with many wineries using no oak. As with other white grapes, barrel aging will yield a slightly thicker texture.

Two extreme versions of Pinot Gris also turn up. In Alsace, the dry autumn weather is often propitious for creating a sweet, late-harvest style best for drinking with dessert. These wines are immensely concentrated and fragrant, but retain firm acidity for good balance. The best of these are rare, expensive and memorable.

Even less frequently, some winemakers leave the wine on the grape skins in the manner of a red, which yields a copper-colored, in-between wine known as Ramato, which looks like rosé but tastes like a hearty Pinot Gris. A radical experimental fringe ferments these wines in clay vessels known as amphorae, mimicking ancient Roman practice. Such wines can reward adventurous drinkers but are hard to find.

For everyday drinking, Oregon producers offer the most reliable quality-price ratio. The grape was first planted there in 1965 and marketed to restaurants that specialize in salmon. This is still a good pairing idea, as the rich fish coordinates well with the wine’s medium body. Today, Pinot Gris is the second-most widely planted grape in the state after its cousin Pinot Noir, having surpassed Chardonnay in 2001.

Though Pinot Gris is grown in most regions of Oregon, the styles tend to follow from winemaking decisions rather than regional geography. Whatever the style, Pinot Gris is very versatile; its various versions can pair well with cheeses, appetizers, lighter entrees and even Asian cuisine.

This Month’s Recommended Wines:

King Estate 2016 Willamette Valley

Pale amber color yields a nice floral nose, followed by stones and green apple in a silky texture. $18, in wide release

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WillaKenzie 2016 Estate Grown

Pale straw color, it brings pear and tropical fruits. A portion aged in neutral oak. $19, at Wine House

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A to Z Wineworks 2016 Oregon

Clean aromas of pear, hay and flowers lead to a smooth texture with good balance. $18, at BevMo

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Duck Pond 2015 Rosé of Pinot Gris

Made with skin contact, this copper-colored wine brings rich pear, melon and lemon peel in a round texture. Excellent buy. $17, at Gelson’s