Our Neighbor: Grapegrower Rupert Murdoch
Q: Who owns that vineyard in Sepulveda Canyon that’s visible from the tram to the Getty?
Since 2013, Rupert Murdoch. The media mogul bought the property for $28.8 million after reading an ad for it in his own newspaper, the Wall Street Journal.
High-end wines have been made there since 1989. The seller, and the man who created this anomalous enclave, was Thomas Jones, CEO of Northrop-Grummond.
A fan of French wines, Jones became a vintner himself after discovering that the soils he was walking on every day in the Bel Air estate closely resembled those of his beloved Bordeaux. He planted 6.2 acres of red and white grapes, and produced the first vintage of Moraga Estate wine in 1989.
Both soil and climate work in Moraga’s favor. The property sits on an elevated former seabed, rich in the chalk and minerals that lend body and texture to wine. The weather is similar to the lower Napa Valley—and to Pacific Palisades—but with a longer growing season.
From the beginning this was an experiment to maximize quality and Jones spared no expense. The property shares a vineyard consultant with Chateau Margaux. It has its own bottling line, a cave tunneled into the hillside for aging wine in new French oak barrels and a full-time crew of eight vineyard workers. Most of the land is so steep that using a tractor is impossible.
Approaching the vineyard from Moraga Drive, the property shows only a fence and gate. It is an agricultural enclave amid the mansions. There are no signs and the winery is not open to the public. It has no social media presence.
Enter Murdoch. If Murdoch’s Fox News media empire leans toward the popular, Moraga Vineyards is keeping its exclusive, top-drawer status. Production remains the same, about 1,000 cases per year, under the same winemaker, Scott Rich.
The white wine is 100-percent Sauvignon Blanc, the red a Bordeaux-style blend led by Cabernet Sauvignon. The only immediate change Murdoch made was to raise the bottle price by about a third, which will probably only increase the cachet of this unique vineyard. The wines are on the lists of some toney restaurants such as Spago, Patina and the Beverly Hills Hotel. Retail buyers can find them at Wally’s.
2015 Moraga Estate White: Aged in 20-percent new oak, it shows minerals, stone fruits and herbal notes. Medium-bodied with excellent texture, this is a benchmark Sauvignon Blanc. $115.
2013 Moraga Estate Red: A worthy detour for those accustomed to Napa Valley Cabernet, this wine is supple and elegant, with focused red fruit, cedar and hard spice notes. The lifted texture sets it apart and augurs well for future aging. $175.
This Month’s Recommended Wines
California Syrah for the barbecue
2013 Qupé Syrah Central Coast —The entry-level wine from an important Syrah producer, this one shows deep garnet color with plum, blueberry and stony flavors in a rich texture. $23 at Gelson’s
2014 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas, Paso Robles — Fifty-five percent Syrah and blended with other Rhone varieties, it brings spices and cherry notes in a medium body. Think grilled chicken. $22 at The Wine House
2013 Melville Estate Syrah, Sta. Rita Hills — Richly structured, this wine shows blackberry and mushroom aromas ahead of earthy currant flavors. Drying finish with tannins. $33 at Wally’s and Gelson’s
2014 Margerum “Über” Syrah, Santa Barbara County — A selection of the richest barrels from several vineyards, it’s full-bodied and intense, with aromas of cherry and black pepper; cola and light tannins on the finish. $43 at Gelson’s
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