Shutters on the Beach – 1 Pico

By TRILBY BERESFORD | Reporter

Photography by RICH SCHMITT | Staff Photographer

Upon stepping into 1 Pico at Shutters on the Beach, what immediately becomes pleasingly visible is the minimal decor.

Oceanic-themed artwork hangs on white walls, complementing the real-life seaside view from the restaurant. Distressed wooden boat models are suspended from the ceiling. Contemporary-style lanterns light the way. Different shades of blue cover the chairs and cushions.

The overall sense of calm suggests that customers should speak in hushed tones, though of course, that’s not necessary.

Being the more formal of two restaurants at Santa Monica’s Shutters on the Beach, a five-star hotel, the presence of an unfussy design is an unusual treat.

The Palisadian-Post had the pleasure of dining at 1 Pico for a Friday afternoon lunch, which provided an optimum view of the many patrons sitting down for a quick bite in their “rush” window from work. Others enjoyed a lengthier visit with family.

In charge of the menu is Chef David Almany, a relatively new addition to the culinary team. He arrived at this position from Singapore, where he served as executive chef and partner at the now-closed Angeleno. Almany received his training from Santa Barbara School of Culinary Arts.

Our waiter, an Italian named Andrea Manzoli, recommended a selection of cocktails to begin service. (One of them had to be a margarita, as the restaurant offers several different kinds, including one with Japanese whiskey and another muddled with jalapeños.)

They arrived moments later. The signature Island Sunset Margarita was deliciously refreshing for a hot summer’s day and generously included a whole round of lime for an extra acidic kick.

The Smoking Gun cocktail mixed tequila with liquid alchemist grenadine and mezcal, which gave it a very distinct smoky zing: Definitely an acquired taste.

In addition to cocktails, 1 Pico offers an extensive red and white wine list.

The first dish on the table was the Watermelon Salad appetizer that paired watermelon cubes with avocado, cucumber, feta cheese and mint leaves. A familiar combination, though a perfect light burst of flavor to cleanse the palette.

To follow, the Grilled Calamari was served. We were expecting this dish to be tasty, however it defied every expectation by being a remarkable plate of food that required deep exploration—the calamari was hidden underneath sun dried tomatoes and capers, which were topped with arugula and flavored with garlic and lemon. That dish alone is a reason to return to the restaurant a second time.

For the main dish, we sampled the Lobster BLT, which is exactly what it sounds like: a lobster sandwich with bacon, lettuce and tomato.

While lobster is irrefutably lavish, the crunchy brioche bun served as a homey reminder that we were eating sandwiches—the most flexible comfort food that appears all over the world.

As we were by the sea, it seemed only fitting to try another seafood dish: The Blackened Grouper Tartine arrived at the table in a similar sandwich-like formation, with the grouper resting on ciabatta bread. It was topped with a discreet watercress and cucumber salad that allowed the fish to remain the star player.

Lunch menus don’t always come complete with dessert, though this one did, and the options were too good to pass up. We enjoyed the Strawberry Pavlova, which—in the best way—resembled something that one’s grandmother would whip up in the kitchen: slightly lopsided, with berries falling from every direction.

Chef Almany emerged to inform the Post that the strawberries were from Harry’s Berries farm in Oxnard. They were scrumptious.

For those with more of a sweet tooth, the Chocolate Amarena Fudge Brownie or Salted Caramel Sundae are probably the way to go.

1 Pico is the ideal setting for a Mother’s Day brunch, elevated breakfast with the girls, romantic mealtime getaway, or any occasion that calls for fresh and distinctive food offered in a relaxing dining room.

With such a prime location, it’s no surprise that the restaurant attracts A-list Hollywood talent on a regular basis. According to Manzoli, celebrities from Leonardo DiCaprio, Mel Gibson and Al Pacino have dined there.

Keep your eyes peeled for well-known faces, but if none present themselves, it’s completely acceptable to settle for an exquisite meal that satisfies every hunger pang.