Roast Palisades

548 Palisades Drive | Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 | 310-476-1100 | roastdelimarket.com | Prices: $$

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

Photos by RICH SCHMITT | Staff Photographer

While many locals may be anticipating Rick Caruso’s overhaul of the Village and what epicurean delights his project will bring to town, don’t overlook the existing culinary jewel on the other end of Sunset Blvd: Roast Palisades.

Chef Whitney Werner’s latest endeavor is a sheer delight—a cornerstone eatery and full-service deli where any meat, seafood, salad or side can be ordered by the pound.

Werner has been working hard to give his new restaurant personality in step with the community.

Key to that is Michelle Hillyer, formerly of Steve’s, one of the delis to occupy the spot where iconic Mort’s Deli once stood. Hillyer radiates a warmth and hospitality the moment a customer enters Roast’s doors.

Chef Whitney pays homage to the late local institution with the Mort’s Special—ham, turkey and Swiss on a French roll with cole slaw, pickles, onion and Russian dressing ($13.95).

On the night we dined there, a newly established atmospheric canvas-covered patio with comfy couches, fire pits and heat lamps set a nice backdrop to our meal.

At Roast Palisades, even when the ingredients are familiar, they taste original and alive. For example, Kale Salmon Caesar ($14.95) is comprised of some popular elements, but with the fresh chunks of roasted salmon, large thin layers of shaved imported Parmesan, cornbread croutons and a homemade Caesar dressing, said item tastes like a salad reinvented.

On his Wild Line Caught Albacore Tuna Nicoise ($13.95), Werner creates the tuna fish by taking the center of the fresh fish, roasting it and then tossing the shredded tuna fish onto it. The texture and consistency is much different—even in taste—than the traditional water, oil or mayonnaise-larded tuna fish.

Chinese Salad with Tuna Tatake ($14.95) is as delicious as it is photogenic. With pink slices of Ahi stacked on a bed of cabbage, it is mingled with crispy won ton, scallions, carrots, sesame and Werner’s homemade ginger vinaigrette. Cheerful orange mandarin wedges offer a visual perk.

Artichoke & Palm Hearts ($12.95/with chicken $14.95) is the chef’s personal favorite among the salad options. A large deconstructed artichoke’s ringlets float in a sea of baby greens, arugula and small tomatoes. Topped by large shards of shaved imported Parmesan and a Champagne vinaigrette, this bowl is definitely an original.

Certified Angus Corned Beef ($18.95), a small platter of fresh deli meat side-kicked by horseradish and au jus, melts in your mouth and also looks nice on the plate. Picture about eight pink squares of premium meat with a scoop of savory homemade mashed potatoes, perfectly cooked dark green balls of Brussels sprouts, bright orange cooked carrots, deeply green beans and purplish-red cubes of beets dancing around the beef on your plate. Divinity.

Another highlight of Werner’s “Carvery Plates” is the Roasted Wild Salmon Filet ($18.95), but my personal favorite is the Flat Iron Steak ($18.95)—a scrumptious affair covered in grilled onions and red wine gravy.

Roast’s “Signature Sliders”—a line of hamburger sandwiches—ooze with personality and flavor.

Mushroom-Edamame Veggie Burgers (a chickpea and parsley-packed patty with Provolone, wild mushrooms, avocado and arugula and doused with truffle aioli) is not only a healthy red meat alternative, it’s a delicious one.

If ground beef is what you’re looking for, Classic Tallgrass Meatball—a large hearty boulette in a Brioche slathered with Provolone, Reggiano and Marinara sauce—delivers.

One better: try the Crispy Wild Salmon Cakes. Accompanied by coleslaw and chipotle aioli, this formidable bite hits the bull’s eye.

All of these comprise the Two-Slider Combo, which arrives with a couple of tater tots, for $13.95, while party-ready boxes of Sliders can be ordered by the dozen for $70 (just in time for Super Bowl, too!).

Due to some confusion on this reporter’s part, I also sampled a Tallgrass Mini-Burger ($9.95) culled from the “Kids Meal” section. (Children of the Palisades, let me tell you: you won’t be disappointed either.)

Another deal: Family Box, which starts at $60 and serves dinner for four, can either be pre-ordered or made on the spot. It features two pounds of protein plus a choice of sides and a salad.

Locals looking for an inviting and fun environment to enjoy Happy Hour should make a beeline for Roast’s patio after work on a weeknight from 5:30 to 7 p.m.

Roast recently launched Taco Tuesdays, where customers can enjoy scrumptious authentic tacos for $2, $2 beer and $4 wine deals with free hors d’oeuvres. With its sparkling new patio that seats 15, this is the perfect situation to enjoy Roast’s lusty carnitas soft tacos.

At Roast, Werner uses only grass-fed ground beef and Persian cucumbers and finds the freshest of locally sourced vegetables. He also creates every incidental from scratch.

Open for lunch and dinner, Roast Palisades offers plenty to explore, from Grilled Chicken Club and French Dip, to the Brentwood (brisket) and Hollywood (corned beef) sandwiches, to Chicken Noodle Soup and Beef Chili.

There are also quality desserts to accompany your coffee: Red Velvet Cupcakes ($4), chocolate-coated Macaroons ($2 each), a delicious Carrot Cake ($6) served within a collectible mason jar; and my favorite, Hillyer’s slices of homemade seasonal cake. (Currently, the Pumpkin Cake goes for $4 a slice; $29 a loaf.)

Whatever you order here arrives tasty and unconventional.