RESTAURANT REVIEW: Tra di Noi

3835 Cross Creek Road  |  Malibu, CA 90265  |  (310) 456-0169  |  Prices: $$$

Psst… just between us, Tra di Noi is a cozy little gem tucked into the far reaches of the Malibu Country Mart. Serving cuisine inspired by the Italian countryside, it is the little black dress of dining – apropos for every occasion whether it be a romantic dinner for two or a large family gathering.

Under the umbrella of a pink sky, my dining companion Randy and I settled into our al fresco feast as children frolicked in the park nearby. A bottle of 2008 St. Lucia, a Super-Tuscan produced by the Chrome Hearts family, was uncorked tableside. The first sip boldly announced its rich nature, which continued to reveal itself as we got deeper into the chef’s tasting menu.

A platter of Calamari arrived with just a touch of breading. The undercoat of spicy aioli with dabs of balsamic reduction worked well with these tender sea critters.

The salad course was an unexpected treat. The Quinoa Salad sat atop an ingredient not often experienced in Italian restaurants. Yogurt is more often associated with other cuisines despite its popularity in Italy.  The Curly Endive, sliced mushroom, cucumber and cherry tomato tossed in lemony vinaigrette were speckled with red quinoa and piled onto a puddle of plain yogurt. It was a light and fresh way to usher in the more substantial pasta courses.

Short Rib Rigatoni, with a sprinkling of cubed Ricotta Salata, was incredibly meaty and just rich enough. A sip of St. Lucia enhanced each and every bite. After emptying our bowls, out came two more lined with perfect Gnocchi, light as a whisper, tossed in a luxuriant lobster sauce.

Thankfully everything was timed beautifully, allowing us to digest a little in between courses. The meal was paced somewhere between the American version of dining and the lingering meals shared among Italians. By the time the Red Snapper topped with white fig sauced in Muscato wine made an appearance, our appetites were primed. While it was not our favorite course of the evening, the cauliflower/carrot mash that served as the foundation of the meal was a knockout.

The candlelight evening revealed a decadent Chocolate Mousse approaching the table. Fresh berries and a zigzag of chocolate sauce accompanied the sponge cake “cup” cradling the mousse.