RESTAURANT REVIEW: Terrine

By JACQUELINE PRIMO | Reporter

Immediately upon entering Terrine, a weeks-old French-inspired California brasserie, you are greeted by an extensive bar reminiscent of a 1920s speakeasy.

A great glass wine room stands proudly at the farther reaches of the bar. The entire space is highlighted by glossy surfaces, sleek lines and an exposed gray brick wall.

It’s hard not to believe in magic when you step out onto the patio where a large tree wound with string lights takes center stage, surrounded by long tables.

The atmosphere was swanky but approachable. I was glad we dressed up a bit.

The staff displayed a depth of knowledge about the menu and the extensive wine list. Every person we encountered exuded ease and confidence – as if the restaurant had been open for years rather than just a matter of weeks.

For an appetizer, we ordered the Chips and Dip with homemade Kennebec chips and a whipped garlic cream cheese with “everything spice.” The light and fluffy dip paired well with the crunchy house-made chips for a delicious starter.

The Octopus hors d’oeuvres with toasted broccoli, Burrata cheese, sunflower seeds and salsa calabrese blended a crispy exterior with a slightly chewy interior.

The Brussels Sprouts Pedro Ximénez with their pecans, Pink Lady apples, dates and pecorino cheese offered a unique marriage of savory and sweet with a variety of textures that coupled nicely together. I would definitely order this dish on a repeat visit.

While we grazed on our starters, I sipped on a Jack Rose made with Germain-Robin Apple Brandy, citrus and pomegranate, a concoction that was both strong and sweet. My dining companion nursed a Whiskey Sour made with Sazerac, lemon, egg whites and Cherry Bark-Vanilla Bitters that was smooth and soft without being too sugary.

In preparation for our Pièces de Résistance entrées, our server brought a glass of white Apellation Alsace Controlee Riesling and a glass of red Julienas and assured us both would pair beautifully with any of the menu offerings.

He was right. We shared the two glasses of wine and two entrées and they all worked together well. The Squid Ink Tagliatelle with Serrano chile, basil and Bottarga had a bit of a kick that is ideal for anyone who likes spicy food.

In keeping with the night’s theme of eating adventurously, we also ordered the Boudin Noir, a blood sausage with parsnip purée, roasted apples, Cippolini onions and vinegar sauce. A country French favorite, the succulent sausage really benefitted from a dash of the pomme purée. My guest, who has been to Ireland and eaten his fair share of blood sausage overseas, said he preferred Terrine’s over Ireland’s.

We also sampled the Baby Carrots Almondine with aged vinegar, a side dish that was tender, slightly sweet and completely delicious.

For dessert we devoured the Rosettes with Bergamot Caramel – a sweet treat akin to an American funnel cake. We also had room for the Almond-Coconut Crunch Chocolate Crémeaux with almond sorbet and real whipped cream. The sweet almond sorbet was balanced by the slightly bitter chocolate, and the crunch on the bottom of the glass had a sprinkling of salt that made for a savory spoonful.