Dining Review: Laurel Hardware

By MICHAEL AUSHENKER | Contributing Writer

Photos by Rich Schmitt | Staff Photographer

I grew up in West Hollywood so I actually remember when Laurel Hardware was, yes, Laurel Hardware, an actual hardware store on the corner of Santa Monica Boulevard and North Laurel Avenue, a few blocks up from Laurel Elementary.

Five years ago, business partners and Dublin natives Dean McKillen and Phil Howard—also owners of sister West Hollywood restaurant Ysabel on Fairfax Avenue, which they opened in 2015—purchased that hardware store from its original owner and did something wacky: They kept both the name and the original, dated-looking signage and refurbished its core into a hip urban bar and restaurant.

“We still get people coming in looking for a plunger or a wrench,” Howard told the Palisadian-Post.

Yes, that no-nonsense, vintage signage can be misleading from the outside. Otherwise, it’s perhaps a cheeky façade in this new context, hiding a secret universe within; delivering the effect of an exclusive, secret Prohibition-era speakeasy inside. Five years is a lifetime for a restaurant in LA, and Laurel Hardware, despite its deceptive exterior and incognito ways, appears to be chugging along just fine.

Libations abound at Laurel Hardware, and beyond the looming interior bar and the outdoor patio bar, Laurel Hardware just launched its Mezcal Bar earlier this year.

“This used to be a second dining room,” Howard said. “We thought, ‘Let’s create a cozy space with excellent drinks.’”

The small room, near Laurel Hardware’s entrance, is somewhat disconnected from the rest of the restaurant but employs a similar aesthetic with nice, art deco touches.

Here, Laurel Hardware general manager Dustin Shaw and bartending partner Silvana Zender have collaborated on a singular program of cocktails based on Shaw’s playful concepts. Named after famous Mexican personages, the cocktails incorporate the agave plant-derived mezcal, specifically La Niña, the Oaxaca-made brand owned by McKillen and Howard.

Front and foremost, the Lupita tasted formidably solid; a sweet mélange of Jamaica and St. Croix rum, lemon, vanilla and fresh pineapple. I may have to call it a tie, though, because I loved the Lila Downs, a La Niña-based drink with Casamigos Blanco tequila, rosemary mint foam and—the killer ingredient—absinthe.

The Rufino Tamayo, also anchored by La Niña Mezcal Espadin, arrives mixed with Bols Genever spirits, Amaro Alpino and Carpano Antica, and it’s a treasure, as is the Francisco Toledo, Casamigos Resposado with fresh pineapple, aromatic bitters and La Niña Mezcal Primerio Joven Rinse.

Ironically, the Curandero, the one drink I immediately wanted to try, turned out to be better in concept than in execution. Basically a tall glass of alcoholic horchata, this concoction of house-spiced Orgeat (almond syrup), house rice milk, Grey Goose, Mexican cinnamon and Haitian rum espuma (foam), tasted like horchata alright—I didn’t really feel the presence of alcohol inside. Still, it’s a sweet and tasty glass if you’re in the mood for that.

The Mezcal Room has also introduced its own menu of finger foods and they are all delectable. Everything here is housemade and you can taste the difference, down to the savory, buttery blue corn chips that accompany the fresh Guacamole, peppered with pomegranate, cilantro and lime.

Another winner: Quesadilla—tiny folds of flour stuffed with Oaxaca cheese, black mole, pickled pearl onion and sesame seed. Carnivores will for sure scarf down the Al Pastor Taco—holy morsels filled with braised pork, grilled pineapple and salsa verde; and Wagyu Beef, with carrot, peanut and Cotija (a Mexican cheese), also delights the palate. For something light, cold and fresh-flavored, try Chilled Lobster Tostada (cucumber, avocado, tomato and Fresno chili) and Tuna Crudo, perky with mango, basil, chicharrones and lemon.

Moving outside into Laurel Hardware’s inviting courtyard, we enjoyed appetizers and courses galore. “Share Plates” here range from $8 to $22, and our personal highlights included Hand-Cut Truffle Fries, a hearty bowl’s worth perfectly executed, flavorful and not greasy.

Spanish Octopus arrived in the form of a single tentacle amid gremolata, chili and charred bean salad, very artistically presented. However, at $21 a pop, it was perhaps a bit lacking, albeit smoky and scrumptious.

The best move for sure was Pork Ribs, replete with Gochu-jang (a Korean condiment made of red chili and fermented soybean), apple cider and cilantro. This was well worth the price—a nice porcine plate with great architecture, with meat that melts off the bone.

The “Vegetables” menu includes Chef Allie Trent’s twist on kale, shishito peppers, Brussels sprouts and asparagus. We opted for her Lollipop Sprouts, topped with Parmesan and pepitas (Spanish for “pumpkin seeds”), and this selection delivered.

Pizza-wise, Laurel Hardware serves the Wild Mushrooms and the B.L.T. (topped with pancetta, Fontina and Little Gem lettuce). We indulged in an Artichoke, a gorgeous pie including Provolone, cherry tomatoes and spinach.

The “Mains,” the most diverse part of Chef Trent’s menu, ranges from pastas (Hand-Cut Spaghetti with basil-spinach pesto, Parmesan and pine nut puree; Pappardelle with braised short rib, Parmesan) to Roasted Red Snapper and a gourmet Cheeseburger with Point Reyes Bleu, garlic aioli and onion jam.

We opted for a road less traveled—Duck Fried Rice, a swarthy platter of rice, thickened by morsels of waterfowl and accented by de-shelled edamame and cilantro, topped by a sunny side up egg. We also sank our fangs into the 8 Oz. Skirt Steak, slices of medium-well beef with a pomme puree, red wine bordelaise and sea salt.

Laurel Hardware and its new Mezcal Bar really go together. For sure, McKillen and Howard’s enterprise is one of those restaurants where the experience is bigger than the sum of its parts—even if its parts are quite solid.